As it nears gardening time I turn to seed catalogs to order any new or unique seeds, preferably heirloom seeds.

This Winter I have found one new gourd seed variety I have not grown yet. So it looks like I will be expanding my gourd patch.

I will also be ordering several gourd seeds.

Caveman’s Club (Lagenaria siceraria)

The Caveman’s club also called the Maranka gourd is not new to me but I need new seeds. I really like this gourd. It has a unique look and usually grows to about 18 inches long. I did raise one that was over 2 foot long one year. I used a lot of fertilizer and compost tea on the plant and pinched the end of the plant to encourage big gourds.

What I like about the Caveman’s club is the shape. It’s green with light green markings and looks like a primitive club but has a rough shapes texture to the club part of the gourd. This gives it an arty look, which I like for creating gourd pieces with. This also makes a great birdhouse.

The Caveman’s club is ready to harvest in 125 days. If you live in a cool growing zone like I do you may want to start the gourd seeds indoors. Here’s a way I start my gourd seeds,
http://thegardenersrake.com/gourds-a-different-approach-to-growing-them

Corsican Gourd (Lagenaria siceria)

The Corsican gourd also takes 125 days to mature. I start these seeds indoors to get a head start on my crop. These gourds are usually 12 inches by 6 inches and resemble a wheel of cheese, round diameter and flat.

I like to use these to make gourd bowls, lined boxes and drums. They are probably my favorite crafting gourd. This gourds origin is from Peru.

Bule Gourd (Cucurbita siceraria)

This is a gourd I have not grown before. It says it takes a125 days to mature and the vines will grow to 15 foot or as long as 35 foot. If I want larger gourds I nip the end of the vine at 15 to 2o feet and let the growth go into the gourd. It will grow to a size of 8 inches by 6 inches and is an apple shaped gourd.

What interested me in this gourd was the warted bumpy gourd skin. I saw a drinking pitcher that had been made from this gourd and it was stunning! The grower took the time to shape the gourd stem as it was growing so that it could be used later as the pitcher’s handle.

Gourds have been used for both practical and decorative purposes since biblical times and even before. They have been used for masks, sun protection, and to bury and store food in. More common uses today include making bowls, pipes, musical instruments, and birdhouses.

There are a few edible gourds but most are non-edible and can be toxic when cleaning, carving and crafting.

Why I have a fascination with gourds is beyond me. It could be they are always a surprise or that they make colorful bright vines that I make interesting garden focal points out of. Or maybe it’s that just when I think I have seen all the gourds available there is one more I must track down and grow.

This is the case with the Tennessee Spinning Gourd or Dancing Gourd. I heard rumors of this gourd but could not find anyone who had grown it. I finally found the seeds after about a year of asking and hunting. They are a little harder to find today and are considered to be a rare heirloom seed but several heirloom seed companies carry them. They are also available on eBay.

The story as I was told is that the Tennessee Spinning Gourd was originally grown in Tennessee. It was grown in rural areas and used as a toy in the 1800’s. After the gourds were dry children would take them to school and use them as tops and have spinning contests during lunch. I also heard that they would have decorating contest to make the most colorful or attractive gourd.

The gourd is only about two inches tall, bottle shaped and is green with white stripes before it is dried. After it’s dried it is a tan color.

When I grew my spinners I grew them on tee-pees far from the other squash and gourds I was growing so that I could save the seeds and not have them pollinate with other squash family member plants. I also grew scarlet runner beans with them for color and a rat-tail radish plant, which is also an heirloom seed. The rat-tail radish can grow up to 4 foot and has small white flowers and bean pods. It’s an attractive plant and I plant radishes near squash because it is a natural repellant for the cucumber beetle.

I put a good supply of manure in the center of my tee-pee to feed the gourds, which love fertilizer. I also put in a plastic 2 liter pop bottle with the bottom cut off and turned upside down to act as a deep watering tool. I would fill this with water and the water would enter the ground without running off and get to the roots where it was needed.

My crop was a success! One small area made a great theme garden and I harvested close to 75 gourds. I used some in their out of the garden state in fall arrangements and put the others aside to dry. They took about 3 ½ months to dry. I let them set until late spring them took paint to them to decorate them in an old-fashioned toy top style of painting. A few were decorated Victorian for Christmas tree decorations.

They were definitely fun to grow and easy to maintain. I grow them about every three years and make sure to set some seed aside for another future crop.

I have a nice landscaped yard filled with gardens and one dog that loves to dig! He’s a four-year-old Cattle Dog named Taz the Spaz. He’s a joy to watch and play with but he’s a digger by nature and I finally decided to put in a dog-digging pit for him and me! Why fight natural instincts and get upset with new holes turning up in the yard?

I decided my dog would be happier with a pit to burn off some of that energy. A dog-digging pit is actually a lot like putting in a sand box for your children. If placed in a proper area it’s not an eye sore and your dog will be appreciate a place to dig. This spot will become his play area and even a retreat to go when he’s tired or feeling sick.

When deciding where to build a dog digging pit look for a place that is not in direct sunlight and will have some protection against cold winds. A 3 x 6 foot area about 2 feet deep is a good size for your pit. Remove the topsoil and loosen the dirt. Mix in a little sand to help it drain in the rainy season and to make digging easier. This is your dogs new play area so let him watch the preparations and if he joins in to help, praise him.

Once the pit is ready, it is easy to get your dog to dig in it. Take some of his favorite toys or treats out and let him watch you bury them in the pit. Call your dog over and help him dig things up, praising him all the time. Once he gets the idea and starts digging on his own, praise him and repeat, “Dig in your pit.”

If he digs up a ball or toy you’ve buried: play a short game of fetch, then bury it again. If he finds a treat he gets to eat it for an instant reward. Repeat this over and over, repeating the command, “Dig in your pit.” Your dog will quickly learn what the command means, probably in one afternoon. You can test if he has learned his new command
by putting your dog inside the house. Bury a dozen or so treats and his favorite toys, and let him out. Say ‘Dig in your pit’ and praise him if he goes immediately to the pit.

I put a fresh dog bone in his pit for his final trial run on testing his training. He was so pleased and proud of his find that this was now his digging pit. This playing area offered special treats and quality time with his owner. My dog runs out to his pit every morning to check for treats. And I usually sneak out beforehand and bury a surprise for him. It’s fun to watch his face and see his excitement when he finds his treasure.

Remember it’s important to continue to remind him that digging in his pit is fun. An occasional treat, hidden toys and continued praise whenever he shows any interest in the pit is important. Especially if the dog digs there without any encouragement from you. This continued encouragement makes him want to look for hidden treats and treasures and directs his digging to one area. Once your dog understands that digging in his pit is fun and acceptable and he knows the command, “Dig in your pit,” you can teach him that digging elsewhere is not acceptable.

The first step is to teach your dog to stay completely off the flower and vegetable gardens and that he is only allowed on the grass or other parts of the yard. I broke Taz by putting him on a leash and walking him about the yard close to my gardens saying no if he even looked at the garden areas. Then I would take him to the digging pit where there would be a hidden treat. My dog will lie beside the garden or go elsewhere to play and have fun. This took several weeks but the dog behaves perfectly and is happy.

When I am done working in my gardens we play down by the creek or take a walk in the swamp, one of his favorite places to walk.

You can also try the liquid stay off sprays if you are having trouble breaking your dog. Time and patience will usually shape up a dog so that you can all enjoy your yard.

If you don’t want to put in a digging pit, putting in a pool for you’re dog to cool down in may help if he gets too warm. Having you pet fixed will stop the dog who likes to escape to find a friend and long walks to keep the dog busy and gives you quality time with the dog. Last but not least several playtimes a day will help wear away some of the energy that is often the culprit of the “digging Dog” syndrome.