The Aztec people are credited with developing mound gardens, which are also called floating gardens in many areas. This form of gardening was created at least 2000 years ago.  Mound gardens are gardens somewhat like a raised bed garden that were planted in marshy wetlands and shallow lakes. The Aztecs had much land that was too wet for growing but they needed the space for crops so developed this type of planting to reclaim the land.

The Aztec garden plots usually measured between 15 and 30 feet wide and often were up to 300 feet long. To stabilize the sides of the garden the mounds were secured using a wattle type fence system and willows were usually planted to prevent erosion. A waddle fence is a fence made of branches that are intertwined to create a sturdy fencing that breathes like a wire fence would but holds back animals and even soil.

The mounds were built on the soil as it sat which was often decaying vegetation and washed in sediment from flooding. This base would act as fertilizer to the soil that was placed on top. The plants would thrive as their roots reached into the nutrient rich soil. Numerous crops could be planted in the same place during the growing season. Maize, beans, squash, and tomatoes thrived in these growing beds for the Aztec people.

One additional advantage of these mound beds were that the top layer of the ground would be dry but the lower layers were moist and the water could be used by the crops cutting down on watering and supplying the much needed water during the hot summer months.

This gardening technique is still used today in many areas and it has been a form of reclaiming land for horticultural used in other countries and in the United States. Washington D.C., New York and San Francisco used this practice particularly in the early years when immigrants were settling these areas.

This form of gardening will always serve a purpose in many countries and is actually very practical. It cuts down on watering and irrigation problems in hot dry areas. It also supplies the nurtients needed for abundant drops with very little additional effort needed once the mound beds are built.

Carrots have a delicate beauty with their with lacy, fernlike foliage that is perfect for containers and flower borders. I used to mix carrots in with my flowers and I still do but I grow all my carrots in containers.

I prefer growing carrots in containers so that I can control rabbits, insects and so that I do not have to dig up the carrot crop. When its time to harvest, I just lay down an old sheet and dump the container. The carrots go to the house and the soil goes to the compost bin. My crop is harvested in minutes with no back strain.

You can grow mini carrots, long carrots and carrots that are yellow and red. I have to admit I grow all the colors. There’s something about a plate of vegetables full of color that appeals to my artistic side.

Below are tips for growing a great crop of carrots.

• I start a small crop of carrots every two weeks for a continuous crop of small tender carrots.
• Carrots are cool-season vegetables but they perform best in temperatures between 60 and 75-degree weather. 
• Choose a site that gets full sun. Carrots tolerate light shade but won’t do as well
• Soil should be as rock free as possible, with a pH of 5.8 to 6.8.  I use homemade compost for my carrots.
• If you use regular soil, dig the soil to a depth of 12 inches and remove all rocks and any other soil debris. Any small object will possible stunt the carrot root or make it fork.
• Add plenty of organic matter. It lightens heavy soils and increases the moisture retention of sandy soils.
• Sow carrot seeds directly on the soil about two to three weeks before the last expected frost in cool regions.
• In warm climates, you can plant in the fall, winter or spring. Like most root crops, carrots rarely appear as started plants in nurseries. The reason is there is too much of a plant shock to make the plant grow successfully after transplanting.
• Carrots seeds can germinate slowly so to help the process I soak the seeds in water for six hours before I plant them.
• Seeds that were not soaked can take more than 10 days to germinate. Soaked seeds will take about 5 days to sprout.
• I also mulch the top of the soil with 2 to 3 inches of grass clippings or composted materials once the seeds sprout. Carrots will grow sweeter and be less fibrous in soil that remains moist.
• Make early sowings shallow to capture warmth from the sun. Sprinkle the seeds on the soil surface, tamp them gently and cover them with a thin layer of finely sifted compost. If you are planting later, after the soil has warmed up you can plant the seeds 1/4 to 1/2 inch deep.
• To produce a better crop thin the seedlings before the tops become entwined. I clip off the greens with scissors, so that I do not disturb the other carrots that are growing.  You can also pull the roots very gently from the ground making sure not to disturb the remaining plants.
• Carrots are cool-season vegetables but they perform best in temperatures between 60 and 75-degree weather. 

Additional Tips

• Spray young plants once with compost tea to ensure good growth   
• Mulch with compost to deter weeds and retain moisture.
• Young plants will need at least an inch of water a week. You can reduce the water when they near maturity.
• Carrots need lots of potassium. Lightly sprinkle wood ashes over the planting area before you sow the seeds. This will add the right amount of potassium for you crops.
• Make sure the carrot roots stay completely covered with soil to prevent green tops and bitter carrots.
• If your carrots turn out with a branch or two, it means they’re getting too much nitrogen.

Carrots have many healthy benefits, store well and are relativiely easy to grow. They are a great addition to any garden.

There are several flowers you can grow in the garden that beatify the yard but also can be added to salads and other meals. They are referred to as edible flowers. 

I remember one day when my brother’s two boys (age three and four) were over for the day and I let them work in the garden. I had one area of the garden which I grew edible flowers and I talked to the boys about the flowers and let them try the different kinds. I also made sure that they knew there were only certain flower you could eat and to always ask first.  

About this time my brother came to pick the boys up and the youngest, Bob, had a handful of nasturtiums he was munching on. My brother just looked at me with that Look I seem to encourage in people and said, “Thanks Denise!” 

Edible flowers are easy to grow and very delicate so it’s best to grow your own. Keep in mind that if you plan to eat the flowers they need to be organically grown with no added pesticides. They also have valuable vitamins and nutrients. 

POPULAR EDIBLE FLOWERS

• Nasturtiums are the most common edible flower. Their bold yellow or scarlet colors make them a great addition to green salads. Nasturtiums also come in orange, pale orange, cream and bicolor, and they’re easy to grow from seed or purchased transplants. As for the flavor: at first the taste is sweet, but that’s followed by a bold peppery tang. You can make flavorful vinegar from nasturtiums by adding the flowers to good-quality white wine vinegar. Let the mixture rest in a dark, cool cupboard or the refrigerator (light will fade the color) for several weeks, then strain the flowers out and decant the vinegar into a clean glass bottle.

• Pansies are a favorite annual for many people. They come in many colors and have a delicate fragrance. The flavor is that of mild wintergreen. You can make an elegant appetizer with flavored cream cheese on a cracker topped with a pansy flower. Pansies also make terrific cake decorations.

• Calendula, also known as pot marigold, was once known as poor man’s saffron because the yellow or orange petals of these daisy-like flowers can substituted for saffron. To get the effect, cook them with oil to bring out the color and flavor. Sauté some chopped onions in a bit of olive oil; add calendula petals, rice, and boiling water or broth. The result is a beautiful side dish that looks like Spanish paella. Calendula petals also add pizzazz to carrot cake when they are sprinkled over the cream cheese icing. Calendula is also used in homemade cosmetics.

• Squash flowers are edible too. Acorn, patty pan squash and zucchini flowers all make terrific edibles. Traditional in Mediterranean cuisine, squash blossoms are usually stuffed with flavored breadcrumbs or ricotta cheese and sautéed or fried. The flowers have a mild flavor similar to zucchini or yellow squash. Pumpkin and gourd flowers are also edible.

• Tangerine and lemon gem marigolds have a citrus-like flavor. Gem marigold varieties such as ‘Lemon Gem’ and ‘Tangerine Gem’ are favorite annuals for prettying up the vegetable garden. This marigold (Tagetes tenuifolia) with its fernlike foliage is the only edible variety. When you pull the petals from the flower, break off the right-angled portion, as it can be bitter. Gem marigolds add flavor to deviled eggs.

EDIBLE HERBS

Most herb flowers are delicious to eat. Their flavor is often milder and sweeter than that of the leaves. You can eat the flowers of dill, fennel, arugula, basil, borage, chives, cilantro and garlic chives.  

Borage is my favorite herb flower. They make a great delicate candies flower of on top of cakes. 

And last but not least dandelions have many useful purposes from jellies to cornbread. Don’t overlook this hearty “weed.”

* The edible flower list is from the website but unfortunatley I do not have the original source.