Archive for April, 2009

Once in a while you have to move a tree. Possibly you planted it too close to a building, wires or underground pipes. Or maybe it just does fit into you landscaping. Or maybe you like me and find unwanted trees and move them. Whatever the reason, if the tree in question is less than 6-ft tall it is a project that can be done. Sparrow on the branch
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It’s best to move a tree in spring, or in the fall in warm regions. I would also suggest a friend helps with the project and that you have the new home lines up and ready for the tree so that it can be placed in the ground as soon as possible.

My grandfather who was in forestry and extremely knowledgeable with trees always told me to mark the tree on the north side and to make sure that the tree was planted in the same position in its new home, facing north.

Start moving the tree by digging a circle around the drip line. This is the reach of the outermost branches. You will want to dig approximately the same distance down. If the drip line is three foot out from the tree, dig down three feet. You will want to dig carefully to try and keep as much of the soil on the roots of the tree as possible.

The tree may be quite heavy, depending in the size of the root ball that you left on the roots. So be prepared for the weight with a tarp and possible a moving cart. Gently remove the tree with to keep as much of the root ball intact as possible. Position the tarp next to the tree and position the tree on the tarp.

Handling the trunk of the tree may snap or damage it. Use a handcart or roller to move the tree to its new position. You can drag the tree but this will knock soil of the tree’s dirt ball.

I water the hole that I have prepared first place, place some dirt from the original hole in the bottom of the new whole then gently place the tree in the hole. Make sure the tree is positioned the right distance in the hole, not lower than before. And few inches higher than it was originally planted is ok.

Mix peat into the soil that is placed around the tree. This will help retain more moisture and the new roots will grow easier in a peat soil mix. Water well and stake the tree in place. Top with more soil as the soil will settle and tamp in place.

Keep an eye on the newly planted tree for a season to see how it is adjusting. You may want to add some liquid fertilizer occasionally to help the tree adjust to its new home.

Note: transplant the tree to its new home as quickly as possible. This will help with transplant shock and you don’t want the trees roots to have the chance to dry out.

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How I wish I could broadcast this instead of writing so that it would be on-the-breaking-minute news. But even so it would still be too early to know what damage the past winter has done; that’s part of the excitement of gardening.

Some of the damage shows up now, more will be caused if we have very heavy late freezes and some wont show up until the hot, dry days of late June or July. That makes it difficult to diagnose winter damage.

Have you discovered the usefulness of sawdust? Although we long felt that it was too acid, if not completely injurious to plants, we now know that it is neither. For a mulch it is better to get the coarse sawdust from outdoor sawmills. The very fine sawdust that you get from the local lumber yard makes an excellent thatch roof that sheds water and consequently is-of no value for a mulch. water truck and water tank
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However, it can be mixed with the soil to replenish soil. Before the leaves come out this spring hunt through the neighboring countryside for sawdust piles even where the sawmill itself has long since moved on. If you don’t have a trailer, get it by the sackful. I keep eight to ten gunny sacks so I can replenish soil in preparation for Spring season. And on those trips when I expect to pick up sawdust I take down the back seat and throw an old sheet out to protect it. The wife hates it!

Although it is of course best to get permission to take the sawdust, I have never yet found an old pile that anybody thought worth saving. You can use this sawdust instead of peat for mixing with the soil; you can use it as a mulch, you can mix it with your compost pile to increase the quantity.

I have even used it along with hardwood shavings as a top dressing for paths through my wild garden. If the sawdust is pretty well weathered so that it is dark brown you don’t have to worry about any starving effect as the bacteria decompose it. But if its new and light colored, then it will be necessary to put on an extra amount of fertilizer containing nitrogen to feed the bacteria while decomposing the sawdust.

You get this nitrogen back after the material is decomposed and the bacteria have passed on. Yes, today sawdust is socially and horticulturally okay.

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The economy has the nation in a pinch. Your grocery bill expands while your paycheck continues to shrink. Your gas tank eats $30 to $40 every time you fill up. Considering the devastated economy, you’re probably never going to see a raise this year even though prices are going up. Sometimes it can feel like you’re wrestling an alligator just to make ends meet. what a find!
Creative Commons License photo credit: NatalieHG

You’re going to have to do something about your budget. Penny pinching begins with the grocery bill. More people are beginning to raise their own food in their home, growing their own indoor vegetables in whatever free space they have. All it takes is a few feet of extra space to harvest a fresh indoor vegetable garden, cutting your grocery bill down to size.

Making every dollar work for you makes economical sense, especially when it comes to a LED UFO light. They use very little energy, generally just a little more than a typical living room lamp. A 90-watt growing LED light can produce as much light as a 400-watt HPS bulb and cover 12 feet of space. The lights aren’t even noticeable on your electric bill, no more than leaving the front light on all night.

LED lights may be a little more expensive, but keep in mind they virtually last a lifetime. While HPS lights lose their power after only a couple of growing seasons, LED lights produce optimal light for decades. If you plan to grow indoors for more than a few seasons, they are absolutely worth the money.

Because the lights produce little heat, there’s no danger of heat damage to your plants. You don’t need to worry about using fans or air conditioners.

An LED UFO light is simple to install. Conveniently hang it from the ceiling and plug it in. You don’t have to mess with cumbersome ballasts, and you don’t need any fans. With growing LED lights, setting up a growing process couldn’t be simpler.

There’s also no need for an electrician. Since all you have to do is plug the light in, there’s no complicated wiring to configure. It’s safe with little risk of fire.

With indoor gardening, you can enjoy fresh tomatoes, lettuce, herbs, green peppers throughout the year, even if you live in the city. LED lights let you grow indoors with no carbon footprint. You’ll save money growing your own food, and you’ll live healthier. When you enjoy a complete diet of fresh organic tomatoes and herbs, you really feel the difference, beginning with your energy and vitality. Your food will not only taste better, but you’ll be healthier and enjoy more energy every day.

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