Archive for September, 2009

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Fall is the time to prepare your gardens for next year. By preparing you garden areas this year you can improve the soil and also take advantage of many of mother natures free mulching materials. Red maple
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My favorite mulch in the fall are leaves, and they are plentiful, even in a city. I have many trees but still call the local town and have several piles of leaves dropped off so that I can let them set and turn into leaf mold (A name for decomposed leaves).

How to create mulch from leaves

The first step to take is to pile the leaves in one place using a rake, a wheel barrel or cloth. The leaves in the pile should be dry.

TIP: I use an old sheet to rake the leaves on. They will easy pull to the pile I have created. I also pile the leaves in a U shape I have created with straw bales.

Leaves will break down faster if they have been shredded, so I always make sure I include this step. I usually do this by mowing them in the yard then raking and moving the leaves to the pile.  Often the leaves I have delivered are already shredded. a long view
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The next step is to add the shredded leaves to a compost bin. Layering the leaves will help them to compost faster. I use fresh leaf clipping and straw. New or old sawdust and manure will also work well. Again, I try to find free mulching materials.

Tip: Call your local township or park for free leaves. Sawdust can often be obtained from tree companies or construction companies.

I place the leaves in layers of 12-18 inches and add 6 to 8 inches of other composting material in between the layers of leaves. This will help the leaves to break down quicker.

Allow the leaf pile to sit over the winter months. The leaves should be ready for use in the spring. If you need the leaves to break down faster place them in black plastic bags. The bags will heat the leaves and help them to decompose quicker.

Many people use leaves that have sat for several years in their gardens. When they sit for several year they become leaf mold and are very rich in nutrients. This is one of my favorite mulches to use in the gardens and around trees.

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When planting Peonies plant as soon as they are obtained, being careful to set the division so that the top of the buds will be from 1-1/2 to two inches below the final soil grade after the plants are watered and have finished settling. Dahlia
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If planted too deep you will probably get pretty foliage with a few or no blooms, and if too shallow, the buds will be exposed and are likely to get broken off by Old Shep when he serves notice on a stray cat or rabbit.

You should expect blooms from three to five eye divisions the first season. Only seven of the 60 varieties I planted in my garden a few years ago failed to bloom the first year. The plants made a splendid display of flowers the third season after planting.

Digging and dividing large, old peony clumps is no easy task, as most gardeners have learned. If the freshly-dug clump is left exposed to the air for a while, the roots will become less brittle and are more easily handled without breaking. The soil which is tightly held by the roots is best removed with a stream of water from the hose.

Do not simply cut the clump in half and plant the two peonies without removing any of the old large roots. Such divisions depend upon the old roots for nourishment and seldom bloom. The clump should be cut into smaller divisions, usually with from three to five eyes, some of the older roots removed and the others shortened to about six inches.

This method stimulates the production of new roots which increases the plant’s vigor and productiveness. A stout butcher knife and a hammer are good division tools. Established plants may be fertilized in early spring with a handful of balanced plant food applied in a ring around each plant and stirred into the soil. Peony 'Suzy Q'
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To Preserve Color

Most peony flowers fade in sunlight and if left to open and stand in the sun they lose much of their delicate beauty. If you wish to use peonies for display in a flower show or as a bouquet in the home, cut the flowers and let them open in the dark or at least in partial shade. Do not cut stems so long that all of the leaves are taken with the stalk. This would tend to weaken the plant.

Peonies which are properly planted and maintained are seldom bothered by diseases. The foliage is hardly ever attacked by insect pests. Plants should be carefully watched and if any disease occurs the affected parts should be removed and destroyed.

Root knot, leaf spot and botrytis blight are the three most common ailments. Root knot can be avoided by planting clean, healthy divisions in disease-free soil. New plants should not be set in an old bed where root knot has occurred. If the plants are properly spaced, very little damage is done by leaf spot.

Botrytis blight is likely to be the most serious peony disease and sometimes in orchid plants. It affects stems, buds and leaves just like in caring for orchid plants. Young stalks in early spring suddenly wilt and fall over, and young buds turn black and dry up. Later on, larger buds which become infected turn brown and fail to open up.

For control, remove and destroy all infected parts as soon as they appear. Cut off all tops near the crowns in the fall and burn. If severe infestation has occurred before, remove the upper two inches of soil around the plants and replace with fresh disease-free soil.

Also as a preventive measure in the spring, spray the young shoots as soon as they appear, with Bordeaux mixture 2-2-50 or a copper fungicide mixture. Two or three successive sprays should follow at weekly intervals.

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It’s rather surprising how the desirability of the blue dendrobium orchid is increasing at such a fast pace. On the other hand, maybe it is not so surprising. It forms attractive and long-lasting blooms in vivid tones of blue and is a stunning addition to any floral display. Modern Day Floral 2-4-09 5
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It’s also a popular choice of lots of orchid growers, and it is remarkable to note that this lovely blossom is turning into a highly stylish house plant as well.

The blue dendrobium holds a rich history. It is indigenous to the Philippines where it flourishes as a natural species. It is quite comparable in appearance to particular moths that flit all around in the wilderness of that country.

However a transformation has happened in the blue dendrobium that is being sold in recent times in comparison with the typical plants that grow in their natural habitat. The present kind is a cross that’s in fact a good deal more brilliant in color than its long-established ancestor.

The blue dendrobium orchid is in fact somewhat rare and there are a few sorts that are even dying out. This is largely because their indigenous surroundings have been wiped out. But you can cultivate this attractive orchid at home as long as you possess determination, diligence and the correct knowledge concerning how to raise these flowers.

In terms of raising the blue dendrobium orchid, you will need to be sure to follow one simple principle. The hotter it is, the more water you will need to offer it; and the cooler the temperature, the less watering is necessary.

This may seem obvious; however the reality is that you will need to adjust your watering schedule according to the season. Throughout the summer you’ll need to water these flowers approximately every five days, or less, however in wintertime you can wait up to 12 days in between waterings.

Of course, if you don’t possess the time or persistence to tend the blue dendrobium orchid you can always buy them from numerous florists, both on the internet and off. You can obtain just-cut blue dendrobiums in assorted shades. They make a superb addition to a bridal bouquet, and furthermore are a very striking centerpiece for the wedding reception, or even as a gorgeous flower arrangement for your home.

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