Archive for the “container gardening” Category

Indoor gardening has became a recent trend as people struggle to stay within their food budgets from month to month. The price of groceries has soared over the past few years and we are always looking for ways to cut down on spending. The internet can provide you with beautiful indoor garden ideas.
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These tips should get you started.

The key to successful indoor gardening is what you choose to grow. Some herbs and vegetables will not fair well in an indoor setting because they need much more room than just a small container to grow in.

Dwarf varieties of plants tend to thrive a lot better with less effort then normal varieties. Tomatoes, peppers and radishes are all good ideas for indoor growing.

The container you choose for growing is also a big determining factor in how well your plants will prosper. Smaller plants will do just fine in smaller containers while those that grow to a substantial size will need for more room. Crowding a plants roots is a quick way to completely kill off the plant or stunt its growth.

Determining the right amount of sunlight seems to always be a problem for indoor gardeners. You should research each specific plant to see what it requires since all plants will have different requirements. Windowsills facing the side of the house where the sun rises are a prime spot for getting sunlight to your plants, no matter how much light they need.

To prevent accidental over fertilization most experts recommend using a potting soil mixture with the fertilizer already added in. This will eliminate the need for any type of fertilizer or growth enhancement for at least the first 2 months.

These are just a few of the many pieces of advice you can find to help make your indoor gardening adventure more prosperous.

I know how you feel, you love to have a killer indoor garden but may overwhelmed by it all. Then this is what you need to do. Go to 4indoorgarden.com to get some reviews on some popular and successful ‘indoor gardening‘ products.

Next If you are serious about having a beautiful garden, try one of them, they do work. Third enjoy the site and pick up some tips.

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Here are several useful tips for creating a hanging basket or container pot. I also use these techniques for my indoor container gardens and windowsill plants too.

last leg
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Soil is always the key to a healthy plant. For containers and hanging baskets use an artificial soil composed mostly of peat moss.  Good soils such as Fafard or Pro-Mix use perlite, peat, and other ingredients to produce a soil that will not compact over the summer.  I also use homemade compost in my container plants. (It makes great compost tea.)

Real garden soil compacts and turns into concrete under the pressure of regular watering.  And when that happens the plant roots stop growing because they require good open spaces to move into and absorb nutrients. Hard, compacted soils do not grow good plants so do not use real soil in your containers. It’s also lighter than real soil.

Tip: I re-use my artificial potting soil from year to year.  I dump it out of the pot when the season is over or the plant needs re-potted. Break up the soil mix with a shovel to cut up all last year’s roots. Next add approximately 10 % of compost. The compost will create air spaces and gives plants a boost of nutrients.

Feed your plants regularly.  Nitrogen is needed by all plants and is used up quickly.  I use a fish-emulsion liquid feed with seaweed to provide all the trace nutrients my plants require.  I also use compost tea, which I have a supply on hand at all times. You can use any liquid plant food (like Miracle Grow) to promote growth.

Watering your plants. And finally, no matter the size of the container, it is important to soak it all the way to the bottom at each watering.  Continue watering until water emerges from the pot bottom.  This ensures the roots can reach all parts of the container and grow properly. I also set all my container plants on pebbles that sit on trays. This adds humidity around the plant and also makes sure the plant has drained well. Plants do not like wet feet (roots).

Succulents
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These tips will keep your container plants and indoor plants healthy.

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When planting Peonies plant as soon as they are obtained, being careful to set the division so that the top of the buds will be from 1-1/2 to two inches below the final soil grade after the plants are watered and have finished settling. Dahlia
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If planted too deep you will probably get pretty foliage with a few or no blooms, and if too shallow, the buds will be exposed and are likely to get broken off by Old Shep when he serves notice on a stray cat or rabbit.

You should expect blooms from three to five eye divisions the first season. Only seven of the 60 varieties I planted in my garden a few years ago failed to bloom the first year. The plants made a splendid display of flowers the third season after planting.

Digging and dividing large, old peony clumps is no easy task, as most gardeners have learned. If the freshly-dug clump is left exposed to the air for a while, the roots will become less brittle and are more easily handled without breaking. The soil which is tightly held by the roots is best removed with a stream of water from the hose.

Do not simply cut the clump in half and plant the two peonies without removing any of the old large roots. Such divisions depend upon the old roots for nourishment and seldom bloom. The clump should be cut into smaller divisions, usually with from three to five eyes, some of the older roots removed and the others shortened to about six inches.

This method stimulates the production of new roots which increases the plant’s vigor and productiveness. A stout butcher knife and a hammer are good division tools. Established plants may be fertilized in early spring with a handful of balanced plant food applied in a ring around each plant and stirred into the soil. Peony 'Suzy Q'
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To Preserve Color

Most peony flowers fade in sunlight and if left to open and stand in the sun they lose much of their delicate beauty. If you wish to use peonies for display in a flower show or as a bouquet in the home, cut the flowers and let them open in the dark or at least in partial shade. Do not cut stems so long that all of the leaves are taken with the stalk. This would tend to weaken the plant.

Peonies which are properly planted and maintained are seldom bothered by diseases. The foliage is hardly ever attacked by insect pests. Plants should be carefully watched and if any disease occurs the affected parts should be removed and destroyed.

Root knot, leaf spot and botrytis blight are the three most common ailments. Root knot can be avoided by planting clean, healthy divisions in disease-free soil. New plants should not be set in an old bed where root knot has occurred. If the plants are properly spaced, very little damage is done by leaf spot.

Botrytis blight is likely to be the most serious peony disease and sometimes in orchid plants. It affects stems, buds and leaves just like in caring for orchid plants. Young stalks in early spring suddenly wilt and fall over, and young buds turn black and dry up. Later on, larger buds which become infected turn brown and fail to open up.

For control, remove and destroy all infected parts as soon as they appear. Cut off all tops near the crowns in the fall and burn. If severe infestation has occurred before, remove the upper two inches of soil around the plants and replace with fresh disease-free soil.

Also as a preventive measure in the spring, spray the young shoots as soon as they appear, with Bordeaux mixture 2-2-50 or a copper fungicide mixture. Two or three successive sprays should follow at weekly intervals.

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