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Archive for the “Creative Organic Gardening” Category

Creative organic gardening uses nature friendly growing techniques and creative uses of everyday items.

Many gardeners get very upset by the large amount of time spent on gardens maintenance, but they should rather work more cleverly than harder. Each season brings its own tasks and this should be done timely. One pile down, 10 to go
Creative Commons License photo credit: Mike Babcock

Raking leaves in Autumn is a very good example of this, as gardeners spend days trying to get rid of all the fallen leaves. Your best option is to let the tree drop all of its leaves before you start clearing them up. Rather enjoy the beautiful carpet this scene creates. Leaves should not be thrown away, but rather use them as ground coverings to protect the soil from the freezing Winter that follows.

Pruning your roses during winter is another maintenance monster that can see you bending over for hours. Rather create a measuring stick of about 90cm, stick it ten centimeters into the soil next to a rose bush and cut the rose at the top length.

Zahalená krása  [The Beauty was covered]
Creative Commons License photo credit: fesoj

Now take your cuttings from the rose bushes and put the rest through a shredder, this will carve the remnants into splinters that you throw over the rooting area of your roses to protect the roots from the cold.

Lawns should be cut by following a moon calendar. Certain days will see your lawn grow a lot more after cutting, but other days on the calendar can be selected to slow down the lawn. This could save you lots of time as the weekly mowing could be reduced to bi weekly by doing this simple technique.

Do small maintenance tasks as they pop up. Like dead-heading flowers as you are enjoying your daily garden walk. Weeds that pop up can be pulled on the spot as you notice them. Doing small bits, you never have to spend your weekends working in the garden only.

A Lot Less Bother With A Hover

Creative Commons License photo credit: jeffedoe

A small amount of maintenance will see you enjoy a beautiful garden all year long.

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Fall is the time to prepare your gardens for next year. By preparing you garden areas this year you can improve the soil and also take advantage of many of mother natures free mulching materials. Red maple
Creative Commons License photo credit: ph4mp573r

My favorite mulch in the fall are leaves, and they are plentiful, even in a city. I have many trees but still call the local town and have several piles of leaves dropped off so that I can let them set and turn into leaf mold (A name for decomposed leaves).

How to create mulch from leaves

The first step to take is to pile the leaves in one place using a rake, a wheel barrel or cloth. The leaves in the pile should be dry.

TIP: I use an old sheet to rake the leaves on. They will easy pull to the pile I have created. I also pile the leaves in a U shape I have created with straw bales.

Leaves will break down faster if they have been shredded, so I always make sure I include this step. I usually do this by mowing them in the yard then raking and moving the leaves to the pile.  Often the leaves I have delivered are already shredded. a long view
Creative Commons License photo credit: bertdennisonphotography

The next step is to add the shredded leaves to a compost bin. Layering the leaves will help them to compost faster. I use fresh leaf clipping and straw. New or old sawdust and manure will also work well. Again, I try to find free mulching materials.

Tip: Call your local township or park for free leaves. Sawdust can often be obtained from tree companies or construction companies.

I place the leaves in layers of 12-18 inches and add 6 to 8 inches of other composting material in between the layers of leaves. This will help the leaves to break down quicker.

Allow the leaf pile to sit over the winter months. The leaves should be ready for use in the spring. If you need the leaves to break down faster place them in black plastic bags. The bags will heat the leaves and help them to decompose quicker.

Many people use leaves that have sat for several years in their gardens. When they sit for several year they become leaf mold and are very rich in nutrients. This is one of my favorite mulches to use in the gardens and around trees.

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When selecting a new shrub for your yard you should consider several things. Growing conditions, height, width and insect problems are only few concerns. For more selection tips check out Planting shrubs and trees: time saving tips
Rhododendrun
Creative Commons License photo credit: Gnosticgardener
After you have selected the right shrub for your yard you will want to
pick a site in your yard or garden area that meets the shrub’s climate and space requirements.

For example, planting a sun lover like hibiscus in the shade will result in a slow growth and decline, which will usually lead to disease and insect problems, followed by its demise. Planting a giant shrub like a viburnum against the foundation of your house will result in you clipping the shrub several times each year to keep it somewhat under control.

I usually research my shrub online or from a garden book and choose my location before I buy the plant. This way I can dig a hole and be ready to plant the shrub as soon as I get home. If I have pre-dug the hole I water the hole the night before I get the shrub.

If I find a shrub and bring it home, I water the shrub well and sit it in the shade, dig a hole, water the hole and plant the shrub the next day.

Why water a hole? It lets me see if the location drains well and I also make sure the surrounding water is damp and moist. This will help the shrub adapt to its new surrounding faster.

Other tips for planting a shrub

  • Plant your container grown or balled shrubs in early spring or fall, while temperatures are mild. Bare root shrubs should be planted in early spring, so they have the rest of the growing season to get established.
  • Dig a hole approximately 1 ½ times the size of the root ball. Amend the soil minimally. I use compost in the bottom of the hole and mix a small amount of compost in the soil that I have removed for the shrub. When roots encounter overly rich soil surrounded by a wall of clay, they tend to grow back into the amended area, producing a root-bound effect. Since my soil tens to be heavy clay this step is important for me.
  • Tamp the soil back into the hole with your foot, eliminating air pockets. Air pockets cause poor drainage and the roots of the shrub will not breath properly leading to a sickly shrub that grows slowly.
  • Water the shrub with a trickle from the hose, drip irrigation or with plastic milk jugs until the area is saturated. Continue providing one inch of water per week during the growing season.
  • It’s best to reduce competition from weeds by installing a weed mat or 2 to 3 inches of mulch. Your shrub will grow better and you will have less work. You could also plant a shallow-rooted ground cover around the base of the shrub. Periwinkle is a good choice for a ground cover.
  • When planting shrubs, plant in a group of three to five. Repetition and odd numbers are more pleasing to the eye and have a more natural look. If you consider your shrub to be a stand-alone specimen, plant some smaller shrubs in front of it to give a layered look. The addition of perennial flowers in the group will also add to the planting.

Shrubs add to the beauty and relaxation of your yard. They also make a great backdrop for flowers and soften the edges of your home and garden areas.

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