Many gardeners get very upset by the large amount of time spent on gardens maintenance, but they should rather work more cleverly than harder. Each season brings its own tasks and this should be done timely.
photo credit: Mike Babcock

Raking leaves in Autumn is a very good example of this, as gardeners spend days trying to get rid of all the fallen leaves. Your best option is to let the tree drop all of its leaves before you start clearing them up. Rather enjoy the beautiful carpet this scene creates. Leaves should not be thrown away, but rather use them as ground coverings to protect the soil from the freezing Winter that follows.

Pruning your roses during winter is another maintenance monster that can see you bending over for hours. Rather create a measuring stick of about 90cm, stick it ten centimeters into the soil next to a rose bush and cut the rose at the top length.

photo credit: fesoj

Now take your cuttings from the rose bushes and put the rest through a shredder, this will carve the remnants into splinters that you throw over the rooting area of your roses to protect the roots from the cold.

Lawns should be cut by following a moon calendar. Certain days will see your lawn grow a lot more after cutting, but other days on the calendar can be selected to slow down the lawn. This could save you lots of time as the weekly mowing could be reduced to bi weekly by doing this simple technique.

Do small maintenance tasks as they pop up. Like dead-heading flowers as you are enjoying your daily garden walk. Weeds that pop up can be pulled on the spot as you notice them. Doing small bits, you never have to spend your weekends working in the garden only.

photo credit: jeffedoe

A small amount of maintenance will see you enjoy a beautiful garden all year long.

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My favorite mulch in the fall are leaves, and they are plentiful, even in a city. I have many trees but still call the local town and have several piles of leaves dropped off so that I can let them set and turn into leaf mold (A name for decomposed leaves).

How to create mulch from leaves

The first step to take is to pile the leaves in one place using a rake, a wheel barrel or cloth. The leaves in the pile should be dry.

TIP: I use an old sheet to rake the leaves on. They will easy pull to the pile I have created. I also pile the leaves in a U shape I have created with straw bales.

Leaves will break down faster if they have been shredded, so I always make sure I include this step. I usually do this by mowing them in the yard then raking and moving the leaves to the pile.  Often the leaves I have delivered are already shredded.
photo credit: bertdennisonphotography

The next step is to add the shredded leaves to a compost bin. Layering the leaves will help them to compost faster. I use fresh leaf clipping and straw. New or old sawdust and manure will also work well. Again, I try to find free mulching materials.

Tip: Call your local township or park for free leaves. Sawdust can often be obtained from tree companies or construction companies.

I place the leaves in layers of 12-18 inches and add 6 to 8 inches of other composting material in between the layers of leaves. This will help the leaves to break down quicker.

Allow the leaf pile to sit over the winter months. The leaves should be ready for use in the spring. If you need the leaves to break down faster place them in black plastic bags. The bags will heat the leaves and help them to decompose quicker.

Many people use leaves that have sat for several years in their gardens. When they sit for several year they become leaf mold and are very rich in nutrients. This is one of my favorite mulches to use in the gardens and around trees.

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For example, planting a sun lover like hibiscus in the shade will result in a slow growth and decline, which will usually lead to disease and insect problems, followed by its demise. Planting a giant shrub like a viburnum against the foundation of your house will result in you clipping the shrub several times each year to keep it somewhat under control.

I usually research my shrub online or from a garden book and choose my location before I buy the plant. This way I can dig a hole and be ready to plant the shrub as soon as I get home. If I have pre-dug the hole I water the hole the night before I get the shrub.

If I find a shrub and bring it home, I water the shrub well and sit it in the shade, dig a hole, water the hole and plant the shrub the next day.

Why water a hole? It lets me see if the location drains well and I also make sure the surrounding water is damp and moist. This will help the shrub adapt to its new surrounding faster.

Other tips for planting a shrub

• Plant your container grown or balled shrubs in early spring or fall, while temperatures are mild. Bare root shrubs should be planted in early spring, so they have the rest of the growing season to get established.
• Dig a hole approximately 1 ½ times the size of the root ball. Amend the soil minimally. I use compost in the bottom of the hole and mix a small amount of compost in the soil that I have removed for the shrub. When roots encounter overly rich soil surrounded by a wall of clay, they tend to grow back into the amended area, producing a root-bound effect. Since my soil tens to be heavy clay this step is important for me.
• Tamp the soil back into the hole with your foot, eliminating air pockets. Air pockets cause poor drainage and the roots of the shrub will not breath properly leading to a sickly shrub that grows slowly.
• Water the shrub with a trickle from the hose, drip irrigation or with plastic milk jugs until the area is saturated. Continue providing one inch of water per week during the growing season.
• It’s best to reduce competition from weeds by installing a weed mat or 2 to 3 inches of mulch. Your shrub will grow better and you will have less work. You could also plant a shallow-rooted ground cover around the base of the shrub. Periwinkle is a good choice for a ground cover.
• When planting shrubs, plant in a group of three to five. Repetition and odd numbers are more pleasing to the eye and have a more natural look. If you consider your shrub to be a stand-alone specimen, plant some smaller shrubs in front of it to give a layered look. The addition of perennial flowers in the group will also add to the planting.

Shrubs add to the beauty and relaxation of your yard. They also make a great backdrop for flowers and soften the edges of your home and garden areas.

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Just because you know the shrub is a Barberry “Rose Glow” does not mean your family does. If you have someone help you in your yard or sell the house later, all the information you know about this shrub may not be known by who ever is tending your plants and the plant may suffer or die from improper care.

Its wise and only takes a few minutes at the time you buy the plant to save a plant tag or research the plant to know its growing zone and other care its will need to grow and thrive.

Information you will need:

• Climate needs
• Watering
• Shade or sun requirements
• Soil needs
• How much fertilizer
• Insect problem
• Disease problems
• Height and width
• Pruning needs
• Is it invasive?Is it poisonous?
  

When I buy a plant I check all these areas and make notes. If I know someone locally who has the shrub or tree I ask if they have any problems.
photo credit: shioshvili

I have just bought 28 shrubs and want to move 4 shrubs that I already have. I would also like to pick up a few more varieties of shrubs and replace some fruit trees that died this year. (My summer was very hard of shrubs and trees.)

I have researched the new varieties I have bought and will go out and get any nutrients I need and mulch for the new plants.

I also have perennials to divide and peonies to divide and move.  So it will be a busy fall. But I will make sure I have all the information on the new plants for future reference.

The following sites have been beneficial for me to identify shrubs, trees and perennials.

Shrubs for your home

Tree Guide

Trees

Perennials

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At this time of year you can save money on plants that nurseries and garden center so not want to over-winter. The plants have usually been picked over so make sure that the plant is healthy and have not suffered neglect.
photo credit: Putneypics

If the plant looks healthy and meets your yards requirements, take it home and plant  as soon as possible.

With shrubs and trees I plant the plants as quickly as possible so that the roots will have a chance to start to grow before late fall and early winter set in. I usually plant them the same day as I bring them home.

I make sure the plants are deep watered each week until frost starts to hit my area (I am a zone 5 so that late October or early November). To deep water properly I use a one-gallon milk jug and poke a hole in the side with a nail. This will let the water slowly soak into the root system where it is needed.

When winter sets in I mulch around the shrub or tree with about 4 inches of mulch. It’s important to make sure the mulch does not touch the tree or shrub trunk. The trunk will breath better if the mulch does not touch. And mulch helps to protect the new roots that have started to grow.

At this time you may also want to decide whether to stake your new plants or use a canvas cover for wind protection.

I recently bought shrubs on sale at a store that didn’t want to over winter them. They were only $2 a piece for shrubs that were 3 to 4 foot tall and usually sold for $20 to $40.
photo credit: cliff1066

But before I bought them I wrote down the shrub name and came home and looked them up on the Internet. I wanted to know how tall they were, how much upkeep they needed and what their growing requirements were. The next day I went back and purchased shrubs. They were $1 a piece at that time.

I looked the shrubs over and selected the hardiest. My selections included, Barberry “Rose Glow”, two varieties of highbush cranberries, and juniper “Gold Cone.” There is still one shrub that I need to identify the variety. I know it’s an old-fashioned shrub variety but I haven’t narrowed the variety down by the name on the plant tag.

These bushes will be used in the front yard in new garden areas and in the side of the backyard. The smaller varieties will go in the front yard and the larger cranberry bushes will go in the side backyard.

There is still time to plant trees and this is the best time to divide perennials. If you have a friend or neighbor you can trade perennial plants with you will be able to save a lot of money and increase your perennial varieties.
photo credit: prudencebrown121

These free plants will add color to your yard for years to come.

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photo credit: dlisbona

When the garden season begins you never know what Mother Nature has planned so my motto is “be prepared!”

Setting your garden up for drought conditions can be done by using mulch or planting in containers so that they can be moved into shade or closer to water. You can also landscape your yard and gardens for drought by using perennials, using plants and trees that require less water, or by planting re-seeding annuals, herbs and native plants.

I also water in the morning, use deep watering methods and rain barrels for catching rain. You will find a few more ideas at my sister site Backyard Oasis,  How to choose drought resistant plants.

One idea I have used for many years is watering by milk jug (or a small plastic pop bottle for containers)

Fill the cleaned empty milk or plastic pop bottle with hot water. This will clean the bottle and also help remove the label.
I let my bottles and jugs sit overnight to make sure they are clean.

Use a sharp nail to make a hole or two in the milk jug. You can also use a cordless drill with a tiny bit to make the holes. Just remember the larger the holes are on the bottom the faster your water will run out.

Hint: if you use jugs with holes and without, mark the jug. It’s not fun to fill a jug and have the water run out and into your shoes while placing it in the yard.

Place the jug by the plant that needs water. Using this method you get a slow watering what will soak in the ground near the plant where it’s needed,

Pop bottles

I tent to use small pop bottles in containers. Cut off the bottom of the pop bottle. Remove the cap and place the bottle in the center of a container. I submerge the bottle halfway into the soil. This will act as a funnel and take water directly to the roots. This works well for vegetable plants that require a lot of water. And as the plant grows the bottle is hidden from site.

Tips:

If you have a fish tank or pond you can use that water to water your plants and then top off what water is removed. You will help clean the tank or pond and have nutrient rich water for your plants.

When not using the milk jugs you can run a string through the handles and store them by hanging them on a wall out of the way

Here are two sites for ideas on hardy plants. I enjoy Hibiscus plants and Best Flower gardening has an excellent article, Hibiscus-a-must-have-perennial.

Home and Garden Online has a nice write-up on native plants, Native Plants: flower-garden-guide. Native plants add so much to your garden landscape.

Whether you have too much rain or too little with planning and preparation you can still have a beautiful yard and successful garden. It just may be a bit more challenging!

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Here in NW Pa the rain and cold ended many crops early and quite a few people just turned the gardens under and will plan for a more successful garden next season.
photo credit: kanegen

I moved most of my gardens under glass or used raised beds so my crops lived. They didn’t have as large of crops as usual but there were fresh vegetables.

And there are very few apples in the area this year. I have many trees so there will be apples but not the large selection I usually have. I also will not be pressing apple cider. But blueberries are doing well so I will freeze some of those to put away for those cold winter days.

When planning for next year you may want to look at using raised beds for easier gardening and the ease of covering your crops against too much rain or cold nights.

By adding plastic piping that can be bent in a U shape you can make a tunnel and cover it with plastic for cold and rain protection. I may even have to cover the gardens soon for frost protection.

Yes, a few places just above me may get their first frost in August! They are calling for possible frost in upstate New York.
photo credit: lepiaf.geo

So tell me how your garden turn out and do you plan to plant a winter garden? It’s amazing what you can grow indooors in the winter.

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photo credit: vinzcha
I need to redo my perennial garden, which was totally washed out and I am planning a new garden in the front yard to help redirect water, just in case I have this problem again.

Compost usually takes anywhere from a few months to a year, depending on how you set your compost pile up.

How to make compost in two weeks.

To make compost in two weeks you need to encourage the pile to work quickly. This is done by using several composting materials; and cheating. Yes, I am encouraging garden cheating!!

Compost materials needed.

Hay or straw (preferably straw)
Grass clippings
Table scraps:  fruit, vegetables, coffee grounds but no grease, fish or meat products.
Any compostable material you can get for free. Leaves, old sawdust, old dirt, manure

Layer your compostable items in a pile. I usually use old bales for sides and create a U shape and pile my material in the U.

Now this is how you cheat. To make you pile compost faster you need your compostable items to be as small as possible. I mow the leaves and straw and blend any table scraps. Layer the compostable items and lightly stir. Dig a hole and put in your table scraps.

Stir the pile every day.

Other items that will help your compost pile break down faster:
Yarrow
Comfrey
And coke… yes, coke will help a pile compost in no time at all.

I have six large pile of compost working now. They should be ready next week. I have used this process for years and it works every time.

Here is a link for more ideas for materials to compost.

And if you are like me, you find free materail to compost with. the money you save can be spent on seeds or new plants.

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photo credit: >>>WonderMike<<<

It’s also made me plan more for the future. I have switched most of my gardens to container gardens where I can move the containers indoors on cold nights. I have made raised beds that can be covered in colder weather and are protected from floods and can also be covered when we have too much rain.

The raised beds are being moved near a pond for easy watering and piping has been has been planned into the design for easy watering in case of drought. The uses of rain barrels for collecting excess rain are also in the plans.

And I have also switched to move “gardening under glass. I will be able to extend my gardening season, try new plants and hopefully be able to handle any climate problems that come my way.

I don’t know if it was global warming that lead to our horrendous summer or lack of summer but gardens and trees have really suffered this year.

I also suffered heavy loss due to flooding and property damage.

For this reason The Gardener’s Rake and its sister site, Backyard Oasis will have a week of topics covering how to deal and plan your backyard, front yard and garden areas for weather that is less than perfect.

Join us next week (August 24th, 2009) for topics on:

• Raised Bed Gardening
• Gardening under Glass
• Dry Creeks
• The Moveable Garden
• Climate problems
• Surviving drought
• landscape ideas
  
• and more.

My front yard backyard and garden areas are also being totally redone due to property damage.

The projects will probably last into next year but will be covered online. Ideas for healthy plants and trees will also be covered. I hope that these ideas will help you if you end up in a situation like I have.

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photo credit: dandeluca

Herbs in flower boxes.

Herb plants are always available in garden centers. With their different floral color and textures herbs will make great garden boxes, plus they will add to your culinary cooking selection. Add a few flowers, ceramic pieces or a vegetable or two and you will have a one of a kind window box. Basil, chives, mint and thyme are all good herbs for your window box.

Best Flower Options for Window Boxes

Begonias, geraniums, marigolds, petunias and pansies are a few of the most popular window box flowers. I like the look of spikes for height and hanging vine or two to create a flow and break the window box feel. When using season flowers, they will need to be replaced in late fall and winter with fall flowers such as mums or greenery.

Examples of successful greenery would be green hydrangea, bittersweet and certain ivy.

When selecting flowers you want plants that will stay fairly small, so that they will not outgrow the space. You will also be selecting plants for an abundance of color and long lasting blooms. Or you may decide to go with one or two colors.

Yellow and white flowers are the trendy colors for the 2009 garden season. Ask at your garden center for plants that stay small and keep their blossoms longer.

One other consideration when selecting flowers is low maintenance. Pick a few plants that have beautiful foliage and will stand out on its own. By doing this, even if you other flowers are in between blossoms you will still have vibrant color in your window box.

Window boxes will add  beauty and color to your backyard landscape . It’s a simple way to have a mini garden and the opportunity to switch you backyard look on a monthly or seasonal basis.

Many of these plants and flowers will grow well indoors and will add more color to your home in the winter season. Just place your window bow, indoors, in a window that receives 6 to 8 hours of light a day.

Technorati Tags: flowers, herbs, vegetables, window boxes

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