photo credit: sabianmaggy

Fall is a perfect time to buy or order bulbs and many are on sale. By surfing the web or picking up a few gardening magazines you can get an idea of what bulbs will do well in you area and purchase them now before the selection has been picked over.

If necessary, you may want to chill the bulbs such as tulips and hyacinths (which need a certain amount of cold weather to bloom properly) by storing them in the refrigerator for six to eight weeks before planting. In my area this is not necessary but in the southern USA you may need to take this step.

Choose the area for your bulbs and work the ground. I like to improve the soil by adding organic matter. Leaves, compost and mulch are my choices. Soil preparation is not always necessary as long as drainage is good and the soil has not been overused for gardening.

How to plant bulbs outdoors

With a shovel or trowel, dig holes the appropriate depth for your bulb type. The package the bulbs were packed in or catalogs on bulbs will help you determine the proper planting depth.

A rule of thumb is to plant the bulb a depth of two to three times the width of the bulb.

Add bulb fertilizer to the bottom of the hole when planting and roughly mix it into the soil. If you don’t buy premixed bulb fertilizer you can use compost.

Place the bulb in the hole and make sure you have the right side up (usually point up, roots down). The bottom of the bulb should rest firmly on the bottom of the hole.
photo credit: sabianmaggy

There are a few bulbs that it is hard to determine the top from the bottom. When this happens, I plant them on their sides. They will still grow.

Refill the planting hole and tamp the soil lightly. Water the bulbs thoroughly.

I watch to make sure I don’t have small animals dig up the bulbs. Tip: If you have squirrels, plant your bulbs in a bucket that has no bottom or in a wire cage. The plants can grow out of the wire but the squirrels will have a difficult time eating the bulbs.

Many bulbs do well under deciduous trees in the spring. They will bloom before the tree leaves out and creates too much shade and the tree will help you find the bulbs before they grow.

Bulbs can  grow easily in pots and containers. By growing bubs in container you can move them indoors or outdoors, add color early in  the spring and protect bulbs if you have squirrel or deer damage problems.

There are also many exotic bulbs and tropical bulbs that will add color and fragrance to your home in the winter months.

For more information on bulbs check out the spring bulb article on Best Flower Gardening.

Technorati Tags: bulbs, flower bulbs, flowers, gardening, planting bulbs

© Denise for The Gardener's Rake, 2009. | Permalink | 5 comments | Add to del.icio.us
Post tags: bulbs, flower bulbs, flowers, gardening, planting bulbs

Feed enhanced by Better Feed from Ozh

photo credit: king nikochan

But while wandering the land I found a few water plants I could move to various parts of the yard and decided since I was already a muddy mess I might as well go on a Free Plant foraging expedition.

I have made note last fall of a few abandoned houses that had bulbs and a few perennials that were in need of being divided. I also know of a place nearby the Conewango Creek that has beautiful water iris and blue flag iris.

So I loaded up a shovel, spade and trowel and took an extra pair of high water boots and set out on a foraging adventure. My first stop netted me snowdrops, tulips, daffodils and Chinese Lanterns. My next stop at an old abandoned house (I asked the owners last year if I could dig up flowers in the spring) added forget me nots, violets, bergamot, iris, creeping myrtle, chinese lanterns and a few hostas.
photo credit: dysviz

My vehicle had close to 100 plants in it so I thought I would have room for one more stop. I saved the best for last. Water and mud!

Down by the Conewango creek, one the one island is the most beautiful iris plants, water iris and blue flag. Being on the island edge and in a muddy area it was time for the water boots, pails and plastic bins. I dug out about 30 plants and figured that would be enough for one days adventure.

When I returned home I put most of the plants in my nursery area I have set up for plants that need a home before being planted. But the water plants were placed in my bog garden off to the side in a trench until I could get them planted.

Most of these plants will be planted in the backyard, which is being re-designed this year, but few will be traded with friends for other plants I want. These trades help supply me with new varieties of flowers or vegetables seeds for the garden areas.

Foraging and trading for plants will fill your backyard with wonderful plant varieties, save you money and add adventure to your day. I always have a unique experience when I am out and usually make a friend or two.

Technorati Tags: Backyard Flower Garden, flowers, foraged and free plants, free plants, landscaping

© Denise for The Gardener's Rake, 2009. | Permalink | 3 comments | Add to del.icio.us
Post tags: Backyard Flower Garden, flowers, foraged and free plants, free plants, landscaping

Feed enhanced by Better Feed from Ozh

photo credit: Uberto

Annual plants benefit the most from deadheading; they will often produce nearly double the flowers that they would have produced without removing the old flowers.

Perennials also can benefit but not at the same success rate. Some perennials have a longer blooming seasons and if deadheaded will have a second set of blooms.

How to deadhead flowers

• Deadhead roses if they only a few flowers on a cluster and the flower have faded. Deadhead by pinching or trimming the rose blossom off. If the whole cluster is fading, cut it off at the first leaflet with five leaves.
• To deadhead Perennials with tall stalks cut the stalk as near to the base as possible. In some cases the stalk will dry up enough that you can gently tug it off.
• For Perennials and Annuals with one partly faded flower clusters pinch or cut the faded flower off. If the entire cluster is faded, remove the whole stem.
• If you have bushy Perennials and Annuals with many small flowers give the plant a haircut by shearing back to about one-third and removing all of the blooms. You would do this when 2/3’s to ¾’s of the plants has faded blossoms. A good example of such a plant is the Mum.
• Deadheading can make a plant look unattractive at first but the plants will fill out again in a week or two. I myself try to dead head a little every time I go by a plant so it good fresh all the time and doesn’t get the bare look.

One tip that will help your plant to look better is to deadheading individual flowers by reaching into the plant as much as possible. This will minimize unattractive stubs.

When I first raised flowers I didn’t deadhead the plants but it makes a big difference in the appearance of the plants and the flowers that is has. Flowers add such color and life to a yard so keeping them healthy and free from faded flowers just adds to the beauty of your yard.

Technorati Tags: Backyard Flower Garden, flowers, gardening tips, plant care

© Denise for The Gardener's Rake, 2009. | Permalink | No comment | Add to del.icio.us
Post tags: Backyard Flower Garden, flowers, gardening tips, plant care

Feed enhanced by Better Feed from Ozh

photo credit: Koshyk

Forcing the lily to bloom in early spring for the Easter holiday makes the lily plant seem rather fragile. Forcing a plant takes a toll and the response is fast flowers and blooms but also the fast decline in the plant. But with a few simple steps the life of the lily can be extended for you to enjoy longer.

First, choose a healthy plant with dark green foliage. You will also want the flowers to be in various stages of bloom. The plant should have 2 to 3 partly opened flowers and several unopened buds. These buds will bloom in the next several days.

The decorative foil around the plant’s pot adds more flair to the flower arrangement but it will need to be removed for the health of the plant. Water the plant when the soil feels dry, but do not over water. Also make sure the plant does not sit in standing water. This is why I always set a plant on pebbles and plant tray.

For the best watering results, hold the lily plant over a sink and allow the water to drain out through the holes in the bottom of the pot. Using this method you will the soil has been well saturated and that the plant is properly drained.

Easter lilies thrive in cooler temperatures around 60 to 65 degrees so keep the plants away from a heater. Also avoid sitting them in a drafty area. I place my lily plants in front of a window in bright, indirect sunlight. Do not keep the plant in direct sunlight.

Also remove any flowers that have started to wither. Even withering flowers take energy and the small buds will be affected.

As beautiful as the lily is the plant is very toxic to cats so place the plant out of reach of any small animal or child.

After the lily plant has died down, pull off the dead stems and let set for a few weeks. Lilies will re-flower if left alone or planted outdoors. They are actually a hardy plant and can grow up to eight foot tall in the right environment. So save the bulbs for later planting as  the lily is a beautiful plant and adds to any garden.

Technorati Tags: flowers, indoor plants, plant care

© Denise for The Gardener's Rake, 2009. | Permalink | 2 comments | Add to del.icio.us
Post tags: flowers, indoor plants, plant care

Feed enhanced by Better Feed from Ozh

photo credit: laudu

I was lucky enough to attend an auction at a greenhouse where I picked up around twenty different perennial varieties.  I also traded plants with friends, which lead to another 15 varieties. Scavenging at a few local abandoned houses (anyways ask first) lead to another 15 varieties and last but not least there is a wholesale $2 a shovel perennial business nearby which I purchased $20 and divided up the plants into around two hundred new plants. I also plan to start a few perennial plants from seeds so I will have close to 75 varieties of plants for my first year with very little money in the project… but a lot of time.

If your thinking of starting a small perennial garden business you can read my first article here, How to start a Perennial Garden Business

In September I tilled the ground and worked leaves and star into the soil each week for the entire month. This made the soil more workable and this material will break down and add nutrients to the soil. The last week I added well rotted sheep manure and then added my plants. This is a working garden. I plan on transplanting the plants from here into other gardens but I still want an interesting look so I laid the garden out into 6 small sections and planted the perennials by size and color combinations. In between the small sections I placed flat rocks to add interest and to create walkways.

The plants have been watered each week and are doing well so far.

My next step in the business for this year is to make sure all my plants are marked well for easy identification in the spring, to make sure the gardens have a good mulch covering to protect the newer plants and their root system and to make raised beds for some of the other gardens I will add in the spring.

During the winter months I will be making the raised beds over in the barn out of salvaged barn boards. I will also be planning out the layout of additional gardens and starting perennial plants in a small greenhouse. So far I have spent less than $50 and have a nice start for a future business.
photo credit: Markles55

I hope to start perennial herbs in the spring, pick up a few additional plants and possibly put in a cutting garden. In the spring photos will follow of my progress. If you have a small perennial garden or wish to start one contact me. Denise

Technorati Tags: Backyard Flower Garden, perennial flower, perennial garden business

© Denise for The Gardener's Rake, 2008. | Permalink | No comment | Add to del.icio.us
Post tags: Backyard Flower Garden, perennial flower, perennial garden business

Feed enhanced by Better Feed from Ozh

Indoor plants

If you leave your indoor plants out when the nights get colder, in the low 40’s or lower, they suffer from shock and it takes too much of a toll on the plant to recover. So bring them in after 5pm and if you wish set them back out during the day as long as the temperatures are in the high 50’s.

Geraniums

Many people bring in their geraniums and save them over the winter months. There are two ways to do this. You can bring in pots or pot them up and put them in a cool place and cut back on watering them.

Or you can take the geraniums out of the soil and take off all the soil, them place in a brown paper bag and store until spring. I usually use the brown bag method. I find the plants do better in the spring in my zone 5 area. You will need to bring the plants out in late march and replant them. Cut the plants back and water. Wait until you see new growth and give them a liquid fertilizer. I will often place plastic bags over the plants to give them a greenhouse-growing atmosphere.

I also save mums, begonias, potato plants and tomato plants.

Tags: bringing indoor plants in in the fall, overwintering geraniums, The Gardeners Rake weekly gardening tip

© Denise for The Gardener's Rake, 2008. | Permalink | One comment | Add to del.icio.us
Post tags:

Feed enhanced by Better Feed from Ozh

Here are a few tips for growing successful perennials.

• Cut back old stems and flowers in late fall for spring-flowering perennials, or early spring for perennials that bloom summer through fall. Cutting back the old stems and flowers gives the gardens a clean look and insects will not have a place top hide and breed. It also gives the plants more light and air.
• Apply an organic fertilizer to the soil in early spring – except for perennials that do not need yearly fertilizing. I have switched to compost. It seems to give me better control over my plants and the flowers and foliage are beautiful. Use about 3 inches of compost near the plants. Make sure not to get the compost on the plants.
• Cut old flower stems off spring-blooming plants to a place on the stem just above where you see new leaves growing. This will encourage the plant to bloom again. I have noticed this really works well with mums. I have more flowers in the fall and the plants are full and beautiful. (I also take the cuttings and start new plants from them)
• When you first plant perennials they need to be watered every week to encourage new roots. After that Water well until soil is completely moist. Most perennials do well in dry weather and will need less water than annuals, particularly if the ground is mulched.
• There are long-lived perennials and short-lived perennials. Your local greenhouse or nursery can help you select the plants and advise you of their care

Many of the perennials on our property have been family favorites for generations. They bring back many memories of grandparents and parties throughout the years.

© Denise for The Gardener's Rake, 2008. | Permalink | No comment | Add to del.icio.us
Post tags:

Feed enhanced by Better Feed from Ozh

You can divide perennial in the spring or fall but I have found it’s good to divide perennials in fall because then the plants can concentrate their energy on root growth and not on blooming. Just make sure to leave enough time before your first frost so that the plants can adjust to their new home. This is usually four to six weeks before your first frost.

In my zone 5 growing zone that time is now, late august. The temperatures are cooling and we are heading into more of a rainy season. I should be ok with frosts and if not I can cover the plants with a row cover and straw for protection against the first few frosts.

Prepare your perennials for division by giving them plenty of water 1 to 2 days before you plan to divide them. This will make sure the plants have a good dose of water before the move. You may also want to clip the plants’ stems to help reduce water loss during division. The plants should be no taller than 6 inches off the ground.

Prepare a new spot for your perennials a day or two before you plan to divide them. Make sure the plants have at least one square foot of space for its roots to expand.

Dig out the perennials. I find that a small shovel works the best and Dig out 6 to 8 inches in all for directions from the plant. This will ensure that you have an adequate root system for the plant.

Position the shovel underneath the perennial and lift it out. If the plant is too heavy, cut it into several pieces and lift them up separately.

Next shake the perennial gently to get some of the dirt off the roots. Now you can separate the roots. Some perennials can be separated by hand and others will need to be done with digging forks or a knife.

Here are two tips that may help:

• Cut some of the roots out with scissors if they are damaged. This will lead to a healthier plant later and a plant that adjusts to its new home faster.
• And if the roots are particularly tough, you can try dropping the plant on the ground from a height of about a foot to help loosen up the roots. I have tried this and it helps. Hostas are perennials that seem to be hard to divide and this method helps.

Plant the divisions in the spots that you prepared. Pack the soil around the plant and give it a good watering once it’s in the ground. I try to move plants on an overcast day or late in the afternoon so that they don’t have direct sun right after a move.

Perennials for sandy soil, shady areas and wet areas will be covered in the next few days.

Tags: dividing perennials, tips for moving perennials, perennial plants

© Denise for The Gardener's Rake, 2008. | Permalink | No comment | Add to del.icio.us
Post tags:

Feed enhanced by Better Feed from Ozh

As most gardens are in full bloom and will be ending their gardening season soon it’s time to think about moving and dividing your perennial plants.

This year I have older perennials to divide and new plants to add. I will be setting up two gardens for perennial storage (a home until the new beds are ready) and re-creating the front garden area. All told I have over 400 plants to relocate.

In my Zone 5 the time to work with most perennial plants is now. Here are a few helpful perennial tips

• Prepare the new plant beds before moving or dividing the plants. That way you have a place to put the plants as soon as they have been dug up. This helps to prevent plant shock and the plants roots will not dry out. I also make sure the soil is full of nutrients by mixing in new compost.
• Don’t divide fall blooming perennials in the fall, do it in the summer. Your local greenhouse or nursery will be able to help provide information for dividing your perennials in the right season.
• If you trim off some of the broken roots after dividing the perennial, it can often help speed the plant’s re-growth. It will definitely improve the plants health.
• Divide your plants 4 to 6 weeks before the ground freezes. Otherwise they might not survive the first frost. If you et a frost before you thought you would, cover the plants or place straw over top of them to protect the new roots.
• Make sure to keep the roots wet while you are dividing the perennial. Never let the plant dry out! This will slow the plants growth or even kill the plant.
• Butterfly weed, columbines, Japanese anemones and oriental poppies shouldn’t be divided.

By moving you plants in the fall your gardens will be pretty and ready to bloom in the spring. While other are digging in the soil you can be enjoying your yard.

Tags: perennial flower tips, moving perennial plants

© Denise for The Gardener's Rake, 2008. | Permalink | No comment | Add to del.icio.us
Post tags:

Feed enhanced by Better Feed from Ozh

But I also noticed while out walking Nikea that all those hidden colors of fall are popping up. At this time of year you still have the bright colors of summer but the fall foliage and flowers are moving in too.

To perk up your gardens this is a great time to start dividing up certain perennials and adding new perennials.  It’s also the perfect time to get great prices on annuals and mums.

The local greenhouse will still have a few marigolds, dusty millers, red salvia and a new array of mums. The annuals are at give away prices now and will add new color to your gardens and depending on where you live a few more months of color. Often times at this time of year I will plant the newly purchased annuals in pots and containers so that I can bring them in on colder nights. They also can also be covered at night.

Our summer and fall seasons have varied a lot in the last few years so I am never sure when the first frost will be. Last year it was very later September and then we had another three weeks with frost free temperatures, which lead to a fall filled with color.

I think I will check out the garden centers tomorrow and see if I can find a great deal on plants and extend the color in the gardens. I might even find great deals on planters and garden art pieces.

Annual plants to look for for late planting: geraniums, marigolds, dusty miller, red salvia, flowering cabbage or mums.

© Denise for The Gardener's Rake, 2008. | Permalink | No comment | Add to del.icio.us
Post tags:

Feed enhanced by Better Feed from Ozh