Archive for the “gardening tips” Category

There are certain seeds that benefit from scarification or stratification. There seeds are usually perennials, shrubs or trees. If you’re not familiar with the terms the definitions are below.

2172 siberian pine (Pinus sibirica) sprout
Creative Commons License photo credit: n0rthw1nd

Scarification

The germination of some seeds is greatly improved or is only achieved with indoor gardening by Scarification. This is a process where you rub the seeds lightly between two sheets of sandpaper. What this does is enables the moisture in the soil to penetrate the seed coat. Seeds with a heavy coat or cover benefit from this.

I use this process for lotus seeds, shrub and tree seeds. Other seeds that will benefit from this process are Burnet, Salad; Clovers; Crane’s-bills; Liquorice Wild; Medic Black; Melilots; rock Rose; Restharrows; Trefoils; Vetches and members of the pea family.

NOTE: Use care when removing part of the sed cover. You want to only remove a small amount. That would be enough to help the interior take in water easier. If you remove to much you will hurt the seed and it may  rot.

Stratification

Stratification is a process I use every year. Quite a few seeds have to be subjected to a period of cold during winter before germination takes place in the spring. So when starting certain seeds you need to create this period of cold by adding the seed to damp sand and putting it in a plastic bag in the fridge for 6-8 weeks. You can also sow them in a cold frame in the autumn.

Species that benefit from this technique are Bellflower clustered, Bluebell, Burnet-Saxifrage, Carrot Wild, Cowslip, Honeysuckle, Lords & Ladies, Mignonette, Ramsons, oxlip, Primrose, Violets, Weld and all Sedges. Basically any perennial seed and about half the flowering shrub seeds that I collect I use this method to help the seed to sprout more naturally. I have a very high germination rate with perennial seed so I feel this process helps.

Sprouting and trees, shrubs and perennials from seed make the winter months go quickly and it fun to see what will grow successfully from a seed.

The only problem I have had from starting seeds this way is that sometimes I start too many of a certain seeds and storage until it’s time to plant the small seedlings, either in the ground or a holding bed, can be challenging.

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A reader (Gwen) was kind enough to send this really nice seeds link. The site has great information and free seed offers.

dinnergarden.org

Garden tips:

1. One common error for beginning gardeners  is planting too much too soon and way more than anybody could eat or want.  Start small and keep it simple.

2. Vegetables love the sun. They require six hours (continuous, if possible) of sunlight each day. Some, like tomatoes, gourds and peppers like more sunlight.

3. Vegetables must have good, loamy, well-drained soil. Most  soil is not perfect for gardening  and needs a helping hand. Check with your local nursery or county extension office about soil testing, soil types, and soil enrichment.

4. Vegetables need proper nutrition. A vegetable garden too near a tree will lose its nutrients to the tree’s root system and a garden close to the house will help to discourage wild animals from nibbling away your potential harvest.

5. Vegetables need at least one inch of water a week.

6. In the early spring, walk around your property to see where the snow melts first and where the sun shines at least 6 hours a day.

7. Also check for drainage. If  water piles up in shallow pockets, you may want to avoid this area. This will be a good location. This will make a difference in how well your vegetables grow.

Glut time for a glutton
Creative Commons License photo credit: Sandy Austin

The Gardener’s Rake seed contest winners

Carl, Cynthia, Noell, kitty, Drina, Rita, nfmgirl. You will receive an email tomorow asking for your home delivery address for your prize

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The topic of how old a seed can be and still be useable has been bantered around for many years.

IRRIDB0137grain_03
Creative Commons License photo credit: IRRI Images

I have used leftover seeds from years past in my gardens for years. There are certain seeds that seem to stay fresh forever and other seeds that need to be used in a year or two.

From my own personal use, I prefer fresh carrot seeds and squash seeds seem to store forever. I have also noticed seeds that seem to be slow starters don’t hold stay fresh from year to year as well. I consider parsley to be a slow starter and a seed that does not germinate well the following year.

It also depends on how you store a seed. If it’s stored in a very hot humid area chances are high that the seed will loose it viability. And seeds will mold so they need a dry storage area.

For storing seeds I have used glass jars with lids and store in a dark place. And  seeds that seem to have less viability or storage time I will place in the refrigerator to keep cool.

These two sites have more information on storing seeds.

Storing seeds

Seed tips

Seed starting tips

  1. If you have seeds from a previous year you can save time by testing them for their seed sprouting viability.
  2. Use a paper towel and wet it. You want the towel damp, not dripping wet. Place 5 to 10 seeds in the moist towel and fold it so that the seeds are no longer exposed to air. I place the towel in a Styrofoam cup and place on the refrigerator or on a window that does not have a draft.
  3. Keep the paper towel moist, not damp. The towel acts as soil and will also hold in humidity and will make the seeds sprout.
  4. In 5 days check the seeds and see if you have any germination. If not wait another 5 days. Most seeds will show some sign of trying to sprout in 10 days (unless they are a hard-shelled seed and those usually need a different type of germination. These seeds are usually shrubs or trees)
  5. If the seeds are really not going to sprout there is a good chance they will show some sign of mold or have a peculiar smell.

If the seeds sprout, count the number that successfully sprouted to the number that didn’t and this will give you an idea of how viable the seeds still are. For example if 5 seeds sprouted out of 10 there is a 50% germination rate, which is fine.

If only one seeds sprouted out of 10 I would think of purchasing new seeds – unless the seed is rare or difficult to start.

I recently found an old packet of seeds from the 1920’s at an auction. I plan to try them just because it would be interesting to know if they are any good.

With proper storage many seeds will keep for years. Seeds that have been found in ancient digs have sprouted so give the seeds a try.  Just try them before gardening season or in a spot in the garden you can replant easily if you have a poor germination rate.

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