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Scarification

The germination of some seeds is greatly improved or is only achieved with indoor gardening by Scarification. This is a process where you rub the seeds lightly between two sheets of sandpaper. What this does is enables the moisture in the soil to penetrate the seed coat. Seeds with a heavy coat or cover benefit from this.

I use this process for lotus seeds, shrub and tree seeds. Other seeds that will benefit from this process are Burnet, Salad; Clovers; Crane’s-bills; Liquorice Wild; Medic Black; Melilots; rock Rose; Restharrows; Trefoils; Vetches and members of the pea family.

NOTE: Use care when removing part of the sed cover. You want to only remove a small amount. That would be enough to help the interior take in water easier. If you remove to much you will hurt the seed and it may  rot.

Stratification

Stratification is a process I use every year. Quite a few seeds have to be subjected to a period of cold during winter before germination takes place in the spring. So when starting certain seeds you need to create this period of cold by adding the seed to damp sand and putting it in a plastic bag in the fridge for 6-8 weeks. You can also sow them in a cold frame in the autumn.

Species that benefit from this technique are Bellflower clustered, Bluebell, Burnet-Saxifrage, Carrot Wild, Cowslip, Honeysuckle, Lords & Ladies, Mignonette, Ramsons, oxlip, Primrose, Violets, Weld and all Sedges. Basically any perennial seed and about half the flowering shrub seeds that I collect I use this method to help the seed to sprout more naturally. I have a very high germination rate with perennial seed so I feel this process helps.

Sprouting and trees, shrubs and perennials from seed make the winter months go quickly and it fun to see what will grow successfully from a seed.

The only problem I have had from starting seeds this way is that sometimes I start too many of a certain seeds and storage until it’s time to plant the small seedlings, either in the ground or a holding bed, can be challenging.

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Garden tips:

1. One common error for beginning gardeners  is planting too much too soon and way more than anybody could eat or want.  Start small and keep it simple.

2. Vegetables love the sun. They require six hours (continuous, if possible) of sunlight each day. Some, like tomatoes, gourds and peppers like more sunlight.

3. Vegetables must have good, loamy, well-drained soil. Most  soil is not perfect for gardening  and needs a helping hand. Check with your local nursery or county extension office about soil testing, soil types, and soil enrichment.

4. Vegetables need proper nutrition. A vegetable garden too near a tree will lose its nutrients to the tree’s root system and a garden close to the house will help to discourage wild animals from nibbling away your potential harvest.

5. Vegetables need at least one inch of water a week.

6. In the early spring, walk around your property to see where the snow melts first and where the sun shines at least 6 hours a day.

7. Also check for drainage. If  water piles up in shallow pockets, you may want to avoid this area. This will be a good location. This will make a difference in how well your vegetables grow.

photo credit: Sandy Austin

The Gardener’s Rake seed contest winners

Carl, Cynthia, Noell, kitty, Drina, Rita, nfmgirl. You will receive an email tomorow asking for your home delivery address for your prize

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I have used leftover seeds from years past in my gardens for years. There are certain seeds that seem to stay fresh forever and other seeds that need to be used in a year or two.

From my own personal use, I prefer fresh carrot seeds and squash seeds seem to store forever. I have also noticed seeds that seem to be slow starters don’t hold stay fresh from year to year as well. I consider parsley to be a slow starter and a seed that does not germinate well the following year.

It also depends on how you store a seed. If it’s stored in a very hot humid area chances are high that the seed will loose it viability. And seeds will mold so they need a dry storage area.

For storing seeds I have used glass jars with lids and store in a dark place. And  seeds that seem to have less viability or storage time I will place in the refrigerator to keep cool.

These two sites have more information on storing seeds.

Storing seeds

Seed tips

Seed starting tips

1. If you have seeds from a previous year you can save time by testing them for their seed sprouting viability.
2. Use a paper towel and wet it. You want the towel damp, not dripping wet. Place 5 to 10 seeds in the moist towel and fold it so that the seeds are no longer exposed to air. I place the towel in a Styrofoam cup and place on the refrigerator or on a window that does not have a draft.
3. Keep the paper towel moist, not damp. The towel acts as soil and will also hold in humidity and will make the seeds sprout.
4. In 5 days check the seeds and see if you have any germination. If not wait another 5 days. Most seeds will show some sign of trying to sprout in 10 days (unless they are a hard-shelled seed and those usually need a different type of germination. These seeds are usually shrubs or trees)
5. If the seeds are really not going to sprout there is a good chance they will show some sign of mold or have a peculiar smell.

If the seeds sprout, count the number that successfully sprouted to the number that didn’t and this will give you an idea of how viable the seeds still are. For example if 5 seeds sprouted out of 10 there is a 50% germination rate, which is fine.

If only one seeds sprouted out of 10 I would think of purchasing new seeds – unless the seed is rare or difficult to start.

I recently found an old packet of seeds from the 1920’s at an auction. I plan to try them just because it would be interesting to know if they are any good.

With proper storage many seeds will keep for years. Seeds that have been found in ancient digs have sprouted so give the seeds a try.  Just try them before gardening season or in a spot in the garden you can replant easily if you have a poor germination rate.

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Groundhogs have a large appetite and it’s rumored they never met a plant they didn’t like. Groundhogs will get used to your schedule and plan a “plant attack” late at night or when you’re not home.

Here are a few ideas to help if you have a groundhog infestation problem.

1.  Visit your garden frequently. Frequent visits to your vegetable garden at random times of the day will scare the groundhogs… but not totally discourage them. Groundhogs love fresh small cabbage plants! I cover them when they are young.

2.  Use scarecrows in your garden. The most successful scarecrows will make noise and move in the wind. This scares the groundhog. And as strange at it sounds a fresh change of clothes for the scarecrow will make a difference too. I also move the scarecrow around the garden.

You can use other items that will move in the wind such as wind chimes, pinwheels, balloons or streamers. These also scare the groundhog.

Motion-activated lights, radios left on near the garden, alarms and sprinklers will also work. Overall groundhogs want to be left alone so if your garden is a scary place, he will try to find an easier meal. But remember, the groundhog is persistent!

3.  Use repellents. You can buy commercial repellents or create your own mix to keep groundhogs out of your garden. A homemade mix that works well is 1 tbs. hot sauce mixed into 1-gallon water. You can spray this along the perimeter of the garden and directly onto the plants. Just remember to wash you vegetables well.

4.  Build a fence. The fence needs to be three or four feet high. You will also need to bury the fence about 1 foot deep. An alternative to burying the fence is to fold the fence away from the garden at the bottom. Extend the fencing along the surface of the ground for 6 to 12 inches. This will prevent them from being able to dig under the fence. This method also will scare rabbits away. They do not like the feel of the fencing on their feet.

Install a two-wire electric fence to keep groundhogs out of your garden. The bottom wire should be 1 to 4 inches off the ground, and the top wire should be 8 to 9 inches from the ground.

5.  Change your gardening methods to raided bed gardens or container gardens. This is easier on the back, more versatile and frankly easier than maintaining a garden fence.

photo credit: jimbowen0306

Groundhogs can be a garden menace. They are hard to keep out of the garden once they move in so the best way to keep groundhogs out of you garden and backyard is to use preventative methods.

TIP: one of the times the groundhog is most active is right after it rains. Groundhogs do not drink water; they get it from the plant or take it off plants when they are wet from a rain or heavy dew.

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There are three contests.

1.    Write a mini story on a gardening experience. No, it does not need to be long. This story could be a gardening tip that saves time or money, a humorous event while gardening, or just why you garden. You can send your story to me via the contact page or post it in the garden forum that will be opening in a few days. The winner of this contest will receive 10 seed packets and directions for a mini recession garden.
2.    Best gardening tip: Enter your best gardening tip and win 5 packets of seeds and a garden plan for a small raised bed garden. This plan is perfect for a patio or balcony garden. There will be two winners.
3.    Best natural control for insects. Send a recipe for natural control of insects. The winner receives a booklet of insect identification.

And everyone receives something for entering. But that’s a surprise. It’s a lot like a garden you plant the seeds and wait to see what happens.

************** Rules: ***************

If you live overseas I may have to send something other than seeds depending on the country.

Legitimate entries only. No spamming, business ventures, etc.

Send your entry to me via the contact page on the site. Or you can use the comment section on the post.

The contest will run two weeks. It begins on Ground Hogs Day, February 2nd 2010  and will end February 15th 2010.

Check out my garden section on free seeds and plants and Recession Gardening.

Good luck and have fun. Denise

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Start the project by using a clean two liter pop bottle. Use a serrated knife and cut near the bottom of the bottle. Most plastic bottles have a clear line about two inches from the bottom, where the straight sides begin to taper down.

Make the cut at least an inch above this line, so you’ll be able to fit the two sections back together. The pop bottle may want to move or pop on you so use extreme care when cutting.

Finish the cut either with the serrated knife or with scissors. I find scissors are easier for me to use.

You can place potting soil directly in the bottle bottom or use min pots. Little peat pots will work well. Some people make pots from toilet paper rolls cut down to 3 inches in height.

Plant your seeds or cuttings. If you use a rooting liquid or powder on the cutting they will root much quicker.

If needed, water the pots, and then fit the top of the bottle in place. There’s a trick to this – slide most of the top inside the base, then press your fingers against the last section to make an indent; this will enable you to slide the rest of the top inside the base. When you release the indent, that section should spring back out, creating a close seal all around. But if you don’t get a good seal, don’t worry – the plants won’t mind a little fresh air.

Set the bottle greenhouse in a sunny windowsill and observe the humidity level over the next few days. I also like to set the bottle on a TV or refrigerator if the area gets sunlight. You get bottom heat this way, which is beneficial to many plants.

A slight film of moisture collecting on the sides of the bottle will add humidity to the air in the bottle, which is good. But if water starts to run down the sides, open the top of the bottle for a while to reduce the humidity. Too much liquid will cause soggy soil and possibly soil mold.

When the last frost date approaches, you can begin setting the bottle outside on warm days. This will allow the plants to adjust to full sunlight. For the last week or so before planting, you should also remove the top of the bottle. This will let the seedlings harden off and acclimate to the sunlight and wind. This is a very important step and overlooked my many gardeners.

I also use clear pop bottle in the garden in early spring to cover small seedlings at night for protection form the cold and even insects.

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And I must admit I have killed a few amazing plants and trees.

Here is  my list of top 5 silly garden mistakes.

1.   Not having a landscape plan. I know its sounds boring but a garden plan lets you know what you planted and where. This is important if you are growing a new plant. You will know to leave it there and not pull it as a weed! It will also save a new small shrub or tree placed in a yard if someone else is mowing.

2.   Not addressing drainage issues. If you plant on a slope, in a hollow in the yard or in an area that may have a flash flood, you could have a problem. These issues may not show up in a normal summer, but a soggy cold summer will cause water to puddle in area you would never think of.

I remember one year I let my nephew play with a toy backhoe at the lower edge of my garden. It had been a wet summer and I knew the drainage here was not as good at it could be. But I never expected him to hit water. I had a mini fountain at the bottom of the garden.

He was having fun so I just dug a few mini trenches around the plants and let him play. The next year I put raised beds in that area.

3.  Not properly preparing the soil. Your garden is only as good as your soil. All plants, trees and shrubs need nutrients and if they are not in the soil the plant will either grow slowly or die. Adding compost, fresh soil or fertilizer will improve you soil drastically. Take a soil test (available at garden centers) and find out if your soil is good or needs help.

4.  Not spacing plants properly. Plants need a certain amount of space to grow. If they are crowded they will either not produce or flower or they will be sickly and prone to disease. Seed packets have direction for spacing and other plants will have planting instructions. If in doubt look the information up online or at your local library.

5.  Overestimating your gardening skills. Gardening should be fun. If you take on a large yard or garden and it’s all work you will begin to avoid the backyard and garden areas. And if you have high maintenance plants they will take away from other yard tasks and even family time.

If you’re a first time gardener my recommendation is to keep it simple. Have a small garden and a few flowers and vegetable and go from there.

And if you find you have a gardening problem contact the local Extension Office or find a source for reliable information online or in a gardening book.

There are many different garden challenges and mistakes we can make. Lighting, maintenance and costs are just a few more. Your garden challenges will vary with your location, gardening knowledge and skills.

But overall, my best advice is to keep your gardening fun. Knowledge and a green thumb will soon follow

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Whiteflies eat strawberries, cotton plants, vegetable plants and many houseplants.

The whitefly actually sucks out plant juices and sap from a plant which will slowly kill the plant. Even worse, whiteflies transmit diseases like sooty mold; due to the sticky honeydew the insects exude.

For whiteflies, look for tiny white flying insects.  Being very small they are hard to see with the human eye. They look more like tiny, flying, flakes of snow.

I usually see their eggs before I see the insect. Whiteflies will lay tiny eggs in crescent or circular patterns on the bottom of leaves.

Whiteflies also excrete a sticky substance called “honeydew” on the top and underside of plants’ leaves.

If you notice a sudden swarm of tiny, white, insects hovering over garden plants, they are probably whiteflies. Check for eggs and treat accordingly

Tips:

If you identify whiteflies in your garden, use seaweed spray on the garden plants. Whiteflies do not like to reproduce on plants treated with seaweed spray. The spray is also environmentally friendly.

Spray affected plants with insect soap. It’s best to use insect soap when temperatures are below 80 degrees, as this natural pesticide can burn tender foliage in hot weather.

Repel whiteflies with fine horticultural oil. You can apply a light mist of this oil to plants in the early spring, when it will smother the eggs and developing whitefly larvae. This is available at most garden centers.

Plant a Nicotiana plant in the garden. These plants attract and then trap whiteflies. Nicotiana is a pretty plant and again makes use of natural environmental insect control.

Use a vacuum to remove whiteflies from houseplants. Agitate the foliage on the plants to cause the whiteflies to swarm around the plants, and then use your vacuum before they resettle to resume feeding.

Another popular form of control is using yellow sticky traps. Distribute 4 cards evenly in every 1000 feet of garden or greenhouse space. Hang the cards among the tender new growth whiteflies enjoy feeding on.

With a little care, you can spot whiteflies before they cause damage to plants. If you woudl like more information on indoor plant disease you may want to read this article, Indoor Plant Diseases.

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It’s brutally cold on the US east coast and in many other parts of the country. And I hear overseas is also suffering from below normal temperatures, snow and frost.

So you will need to take extra care of your plants that are outdoors. In my zone 5 climate I bring most plants in but I do have some new perennials outdoors and a few potted shrubs. To protect them I put a layer of straw over top of them and a few I made burlap covers for the rest.

Snow will also act as an insulation so let them get covered if you are having abundant snow.

If you’re in an area that usually does not get deep cold spells or frost, bring in what plants you can to a garage or extra room. If you can’t move the plants cover them with plastic or old blankets. Bales of straw that surrounds a plant will also work. You could even place straw bales in a square and cover the entire square with a blanket or plastic.

Plastic milk bottles filled with warm water and placed around your plant and covered with a blanket will keep temperatures warmer and protect a plant over night.

Tip: When you cover a plant, shrub or small tree – make sure your cover will not blow away in the wind. Weight it down with bricks, rocks or stake it in place.

Cold snaps do not usually last long so just keep an eye on temperatures and cover the plants when necessary.

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One job I tend to put off is sort through the garden tools and cleaning them. At this time it’s best to dispose of any tools you aren’t using. Actually I don’t get rid of tools, I turn them into garden art. But if you aren’t using a tool – find another use for it.

Winter passes along much faster is you start “garden research”. It’s the perfect time to look through garden and landscape magazines and mentally plan your garden. When you find plants that interest you, research them on the Internet or check out some books to find out how well they will grow in your area.

Take a visit to your local garden center or greenhouse. The colors of flowers will make you feel better about the cold weather outdoors. And don’t be surprised if you come home with a new plant or two.

Check out gardening catalogs. There may be new seeds or plants you want to try, but be forewarned – order now! It’s amazing how fast certain seeds and plants will sell out.

Contact you garden friends and trade some seeds. Its fun and will save you money that you can spend on other garden items.

Plant some potted plants you really like that can’t be outdoors in the winter. You can enjoy them inside when the weather is cold and move them outdoors in the warmer spring and summer weather.

I usually start a windowsill garden and this year I have a winter recession garden.

photo credit: Kevin Lawver

So far my winter recession garden has two windowsill planters, four containers, two hanging planters and soon I will be filling my portable mini greenhouse, which is 6 foot by 3 foot and perfect for an indoor seed-starting garden.

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