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Indian corn, also called “Flint” corn, comes in many different colors. It is used primarily for ornamental purposes. But a few varieties are edible and some people buy Indian corn to grind up as flour. Popcorn is also another popular Indian corn variety that is both edible and decorative.

There are many different varieties to choose from. Garden catalogs or the Internet will help you in choosing a variety and colors available.

How to grow Indian corn

It’s best to start growing Indian corn by choosing one variety. Later you may want to grow several varieties.

Buy blue Indian corn if you want to grind up the corn to make blue flour tortillas.  Strawberry Indian corn for popcorn is perfect for ornamental uses and grows to two to three inches. Miniature Indian corn is also great for drafting with and will grow to about six inches.

You will need to start Indian corn as early as possible. Indian corn requires a long growing season of at least three months. The corn needs to mature before the first autumn frosts hit your growing zone.

photo credit: jmuhles

Plant Indian corn at least 100 feet from other types of corn. If you plant several different varieties of corn in the same area, cross-pollination may occur and you might not get the type of corn you planted. I grow several kinds of Indian corn and place them by the barn, garage or row of tress to make sure cross-pollination does not occur.

Grow at least 5 rows of corn. The more rows of Indian corn you grow, the more likely they will pollinate. The rows can even be short, but you need a block of corn to get a better pollination. Corn is wind pollinated, but the closer and you plant corn the better the pollination. And better pollination means a full ear of corn.

Keep the Indian corn well watered during hot summer months. Corn uses a high amount of water for ear production. You may find that using mulch will help retain water in the soil and lead to less watering.

It’s time to harvest the crop after the hair on the corn turns brown. Pull back the husk of the ear of corn slightly and check to see if the corn kernels are formed and full.

Indian corn kernels will likely be all different colors (unless you get a specialty color like blue or red). The kernels should also be firm to the touch and dry. Gently pull down on the “ripe” ear and pop it off the stalk. Hang up the corn for a few days in a warm place to dry. Then it’s ready to use.

When you dry the corn make sure to hang it high so that raccoons or other animals will not be able to reach it.

What I like about Indian corn is you never know what the crop will look like until you peel back the husks. Each ear is like an art piece, colorful and unique.

In a few days there will be an article on making a cornhusk wreath. These wreaths will last for years and add color to your backyard, garden areas and even indoor holiday flair.

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Most problems seem to be relating back to the weather. Many places have had irregular weather, either too hot and dry or cold nights.

Without seeing a photo I can only guess but here are a few of the more common tomato and tomatillo problems

1. If few flowers are forming on your tomato plants or the flowers drop before setting fruit, possible causes include:

·    Excess nitrogen
·    Too little sun
·    Nighttime temperatures above 70 degrees F or below 50 degrees F
·    Drought stress

Stress seems to cause more problems to the tomato family than other problems and it’s easy to over look. Here are a few possible solutions to your problems.

Avoid soil amendments with soluble nitrogen and make sure plants get a full day of sunlight. Keep the soil evenly moist throughout the season. Mulch covers on top of the soil around your tomato plants with help keep soil moisture even.

At planting time, use a balanced, granular fertilizer that’s made for tomatoes. During the growing season, treat your plants to a water-soluble fertilizer. I use a compost tea for my tomatoes. If you don’t use compost tea, you can ask for advice at your garden center

2. Dark, concentrically ringed spots that cover the lower leaves and stems are a sign of early blight. To control the spread of blight, you can use an organic Garden Dust, available in most garden centers. It’s also important to not get water on the leaves when watering and not handling plants when they are wet. This will also cause early blight to spread.

3. Water-soaked patches on fruit that turn brown, dry and papery are a sign of late blight. The stems might also have blackened areas. To control late blight, spray plants with compost tea, or follow the same program of control as for early blight.

4. Cracks in fruit are usually caused by uneven watering. This tends to happen the most in late summer if you have a dry hot spell that changes to a cool spell. If you use mulch to keep the soil evenly moist you should not have this problem.

5. Yellowed, distorted and curled leaves are usually a sign of an infestation of aphids. Check for signs of aphids on the undersides of leaves or on new growth. Aphids are easily combated with a strong jet of water or an application of neem oil will get aphids under control

Distorted leaves could also be tobacco mosaic virus. This virus causes young growth to be narrow and twisted. The leaves become mottled with yellow. If your plants have tobacco mosaic virus they will need to be removed and destroyed.

Note: do not add infected plants into a compost pile. It’s best to burn them.

Tomatoes and tomatillos are favorites in many gardens but they do tend to have disease and stress related problems.
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Keep them evenly watered, add fertilizer during the season and keep weeds down around the plants. With a watchful eye, they should grow and produce well.

For more information on how to grow the tomatillo check this link: Garden tips: How to grow the Tomatillo, the Tomatoes cousin

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Living in a zone 5 climate I start my seeds indoors about 6 weeks before I plan to set them out. The seeds started very easily and transplanting them outdoors did not seem to set the plants back at all. Because it’s a unique plant I usually leave two in decorative pots.

The plant and fruit is like an eggplant. There are two varieties of the plant, one grows edible fruit (S. melongena) and the other does not (S. ovigerum) The fruit starts out white and look just like an egg. As the season extends the fruit will mature to deep pastel cream, yellow, orange or possibly green. I have heard a few people say they had a reddish color and purple colored egg.

The plants prefer a sunny, well-drained location. It will grow to 12 to 18 inches tall. You will need to check the plant for mites, but a homemade garlic recipe should keep any insects off the plants. If you plan to harvest seed from the plant let the fruit get overripe, then remove the seeds, wash and dry.

The Easter Easter Egg plant is actually a member of the Potato family, with wide green foliage protecting the fruit, giving the plant a lush look. This plant makes a great accent plant and adds adventure to the garden area as you wait to see what colors you will grow on your unique plant.

Note: Make sure you know for sure if you are growing the edible or inedible Easter egg plant.

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Peas used to have to be grown only in the early spring or later in the season as a fall crop. But with the new heat resistant varieties the season has been extended. I have also found planting the later crops near a tall plant that will shade them during the hottest hours of the day helps too. So for a season long crop of peas stagger you planting time by two to three weeks.

How to plant peas

First choose a site that gets full sun. If you have a garden spot with a slight slope and southern exposure that would be a perfect location to plant your peas.

Peas do not grow well in wet soil so check the drainage. Adding compost should provide the right texture and help with drainage. At this time also check the soil for a ph of 6.0 to 6.8. Testing kits can be picked up at any garden center.

I have found growing peas in raised beds makes soil maintenance easier and I also add a fence to one side of the raised bed for the peas to vine up. Growing you peas vertically makes them easier to harvest and saves space in the garden.

Pea seeds germinate so easily, and because you’ll want to make successive plantings, there’s really no advantage to buying started plants. Most people sow peas directly in the garden as soon as the soil can be worked. This is usually about five weeks before the last expected frost. For my first batch of peas I start the seeds in pots in the house. I have found that I have a better germination rate and loose fewer plants for the first planting, but I live in a cool zone 5 with an unpredictable wet spring.
photo credit: S0MEBODY 3LSE

If this is your first time for planting peas you will want to plant the seeds an inch deep, 3 to 4 inches apart, in rows about 3 feet apart. Place your supports the same time as you plant your peas. This ensures that you will get them in the ground before the plants intertwine. (I always used to put off getting my supports up and that ended up making more work later on) Start guiding the vines up your supports as soon as they’re long enough to climb.

If you want a continuous supply of peas during the growing season plant a different, heat-resistant variety a few weeks after the first sowing. Then 8 to 10 weeks before the first frost date, plant a crop in another bed for an early autumn harvest

There are three different varieties of peas: English or garden peas (only the seeds are eaten), Chinese or snow peas (picked when the pods have reached full size but the seeds are still small and eaten pod and all), and snap peas (picked when both pod and seeds are mature; both are edible).

Peas will be ready for picking about three weeks after the plants begin to flower. Pick early and often for sweet peas and a larger harvest.

I have also found that I have very good luck growing peas in a large container. The container garden has a fun look with peas growing on a trellis and I add a few flowers and herbs for color. This makes a perfect patio or porch container garden

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Growing Peanuts Outdoors

Make sure you have raw peanuts. You can purchase seeds for a catalog or garden center or buy raw peanuts at the grocery store.

Growing Peanuts with the Garden Soil Method

Growing peanuts in the soil is the way peanuts have been grown for years and is recommended if you are going a large crop. I am talking acres!

• Plow the ground deeply. This will be at least seven inches or more. I myself prefer 12 inches.
  Plant the peanuts after the last frost in very sandy soil. This will ensure good drainage. A good peanut crop requires that the soil drain well.
• Sow the peanuts two inches deep and space the seeds seven inches apart. Make sure that any peanut seed is whole. A broken peanut will not germinate. 
• Peanuts are heavy feeders so add a lot of compost and manure.
• Mulch! This will keep the soil loose so that the peanut crop will grow well. It also cuts down on weeds and will retain moisture.
• Water well when planting. Do not water again until the peanut plant sprouts.

Growing peanuts using Square Foot Gardening method.

This is the way I plant peanuts. I find it suits my gardening zone better plus I like square foot gardening.

• Set up your garden bed using the Square Foot Gardening method.
• For growing peanuts I use a one foot garden raised bed width and build the raised bed about 1 foot high.
• I add rich compost to the garden bed every 7 inches, where I plan to plant each seed. I dig a hole, remove the soil and place a one-pound coffee can of compost in the hole.
• Follow the planting instructions above.

Taking care of and harvesting your peanut crop

• Using either method your peanuts should germinate and appear above ground in one week. When you begin watering the plants regularly, do not over-water. Over-watering will create poor peanuts or no peanuts.
• Keep the peanut garden area free from weeds. Weeds hinder peanut plant growth and take away nutrients form the peanut crop growing below
• In 130 days your plants will be mature and the crop should be ready to harvest. You will be harvesting you crop in the fall and will pull the whole plant out.

Tip: If you use a spading fork first to loosen the soil, the plants will remove easily. Foliage on the plant will be yellow when ready for harvesting.

Allow the peanuts to dry for two to four weeks, Store in a cool place until you are ready to roast them.

The reason I like square foot gardening for raising peanuts outdoors is that they are easier to harvest and the square foot gardening methods using mulch creates a no weeding effect. The peanuts are also cleaner and I think you have a larger crop in a much smaller area.

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Peanuts make a beautiful indoor plant. If you want they can grow and mature indoors or you can move them outdoors when the temperatures warm up to above 55 degrees at night. In my cooler climate if I grow them outdoors I use a wind tunnel or moveable cold frame.

To grow peanuts indoors you will need:

• RAW peanuts
• potting soil
• planting container six to eight inches in diameter

Start by shelling your raw peanut. Fill your planting container with potting soil and place five or six peanuts one inch under the soil. Make sure that the peanuts do not touch. Water and cover the container with clear plastic. Keep covered until the peanut seedlings begin to break through the soil.

When the plants are three to four inches tall, transplant them into their own individual containers. You can leave the plants indoors or if it’s warm set them outdoors. Make sure the plants are in a sunny area. You will need to rotate the container so that the plant grow straight and tall.

The plants will have a very pretty yellow flower, which is open during the day and closed at night. When the flower falls off you will know that the plant is beginning to produce peanuts. Children will enjoy watching the plant grow more if you plant the plant in a clear container. Children will see the roots form and even see a peanut or two.

The peanuts will take about 130 days to produce a peanut crop. Growing indoors in a container the crop will be much smaller but it’s a fun project to try.

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Popcorn is fairly easy to grow. Just make sure you get popcorn seeds. It is different from regular corn seeds. It will be clearly marked on the seed packet. You can also check for popcorns  horticultural name: Zea praecox.

When planting your popcorn choose a location with rich soil and that drains well. Popcorn needs a fertile soil to produce large crops. Your popcorn will need to be planted 10 inches apart and at least 18 inches apart for the next row. Follow the instructions for planting on the seed package for how deep to place the seed.

For a successful popcorn crop you need to make sure you have the popcorn crop set out in a block form. Corn needs to pollinate by a breeze so planting in block form or at least 4 rows deep. This will insure good crop pollination.

photo credit: Chris Radcliff

If you have limited growing space or like more adventure – grow your popcorn in 2 bushel baskets. It’s fun, easy and has a great look! It also adds to your Halloween décor! I would also add a few baby pumpkins and miniature gourds for color.

Popcorn Growing Tip:

Its important to keep corn crops separated so if you are growing regular corn, grow them on opposite sides of the garden or yard.

Harvesting

It’s time to harvest your popcorn when the silks turn brown. To harvest your popcorn, pull or cut the cob of the main plant. Then dry the kernels on the cob for another week or two. I tie the popcorn up in groups of 6 to 8 ears with the husks pulled back so the air will dry the kernels and preserve the popcorn. You can remove the kernels by rubbing them loose with your thumb or grate one cob against the other to loosen the kernels.

I store the popcorn in glass jars in the cupboard. Glass jars keep moisture away from the kernels so that they will last longer.

Our family grew popcorn for many years. We even sold corn and pumpkins in the fall. I have many memories from those days.

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I grow mustard, spinach, several lettuces, onion and radishes on one windowsill and herbs in a hanging planter. I already have a nice crop growing and will be starting a new crop soon. I also grow cherry tomatoes and at least one experimental plant each winter.

Here are a few steps and supplies to help you set up a windowsill garden.

Supplies.

• Fresh soil… I heat it in the oven to make sure it is sterile.
• clean pots
• small pebbles or rocks
• seeds
• plastic

Start by making sure you pots are clean. I fill the pots with good soil and place the pots on a tray with rocks. This will insure I have good drainage and that the plants have a humid atmosphere. Humidity in the air promotes healthier plants.

A window with southern lighting or southwest lighting is the best for garden crops. I like to have 6 to 8 hours of light. If you don’t you can always supply additional lighting. I plant my seeds a cover with clear plastic to help them germinate quicker.

Once the plants have germinated I remove the plastic. I also water from the tray instead of on top of the soil. This prevents soil mold. If by chance you get soil mold (A light white look to the soil top) cut back on water and use artificial lighting to dry the top of the soil. You can also add a couple of sprinkles of baby powder to the top of the soil. I also water once a month with chamomile tea, which helps prevent bacteria and helps to prevent the mold.
photo credit: cygnus921

As the winter progresses you may want to use a liquid fertilizer or compost for more nutrients. I also change the soil in my pots once during the winter when I am replanting  crops.

Growing a few fresh vegetables gives you produce without chemicals and with today’s high prices will help your food budget. It is amazing how much you can grow on a windowsill! It also adds color to your rooms and reminds me of spring and the summer that will follow. I also have a few flowers mixed in the vegetables too for more color.

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Pumpkins play a big part in my gardens and fall decorating.

The following You Tube shows how some people really turn pumpkin carving into an art.

Enjoy the fall and all it has to offer!

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Hydroponic growing gives you wholesome fresh vegetables, herbs and flowers year round. They grow very healthy, have less health issues and take less space. The only considerations is the cost of setting it up, the chemicals needed to nourish the plants and proper lighting.

This You Tube will give you a few ideas on how to set one up. One thing I noticed was that you can find a fish tank for a lot less than the video said. I have seen them in discount stores for $5.99 or at auctions of garage sales for a few dollars.

There’s no doubt I will be trying hydroponic gardening for tomatoes and herbs. Possibly I will add flowers later. It should make the winter month move more quickly here in NW PA.

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