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Insect Free: Taking all old leaves and plant debris off of your garden is the best way to prevent insects from overwintering in your garden. Old leaves on the soil surface provide a nice hiding place for insects, such as squash bugs, grasshoppers, and aphids. If you clear out old leaves and stems and compost them, insects have nowhere to hide. Freezing temperatures will help control next year’s insect population, and reduced debris on the soil surface will ensure freezing temperatures for insects on the sol surface.

Disease Free: Leaf and vegetable litter provides a place for other problems to reside also, such as tomato wilt. Collecting and throwing away diseased plants in the garbage or landfill will help keep diseases from reestablishing themselves next season. Many gardeners had difficulty with tomato blight, or wilt this past year. If this was the case in your garden, it is especially important to clear off all plants and fruits from this past season. Most spores from the tomato wilt will be thrown away with the plants and fruit.

Organisms in the soil will have time over the winter to decompose and distribute nutrients to the soil from compost for next year’s vegetables. Spread one to two inches of well-decomposed compost on the surface of your garden bed and turn into the soil well. Soil microorganisms will do the rest.

You can plant some early spring vegetables for early harvest in the spring after preparing your soil bed. These seeds will not germinate until soil temperatures warm enough for them to grow. Sowing spinach seeds, and planting your first couple rows of peas will allow for the earliest harvest. Garlic should be planted in the late fall, also, and should be planted in a drier bed than your peas and spinach.

You can finally sit back and enjoy that cup of tea after your fall beds are tilled and prepared for next season. Then you can start planning for next spring.

Betsy Woodworth gives help on greenhouses and on garden tips.

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Below is a list of advantages to hydroponic indoor gardening when compared to traditional soil based gardening:

1. Once you have made your initial set-up costs, hydroponic gardening is around 20% less expensive to run.

2. You can plant more hydroponic plants in a smaller area. This is because the roots do not need to grow as large as they have easier access to nutrients. This is despite your plants actually growing larger too!

3. Maintenance time is greatly reduced! There is of course no need to water hydroponic plants and weeding doesn’t exist either! All you’ll ever need to do is pick the plants once they are ready!

4. The yield is year round and permanent as you have full control over growing conditions and you will have made them optimum for whatever you are growing. This is great for when it’s off season as you can sell them for higher prices.

5. You can grow them anywhere; basement, living room, bedroom, corridor, attic, greenhouse, garage or rooftop.

6. Your hydroponic indoor gardening will result in a crop that is on average 40% larger. This is because you have created the ideal environment for them and they have constant access to nutrients.

7. As you will not be watering them, there is no danger of them being over or under watered. This is a common mistake with many novice gardeners.

8. For the reasons listed above, your plants will grow up to 50% faster. This is great if you have a large family to feed or you’re planning on selling them.

9. There is no need to have a garden for hydroponic indoor gardening. So if you live in the arctic or the desert you’re fine! More realistically, if you live in a high rise apartment block you can still do it!

Hydroponic Indoor Gardening is a fun and exciting hobby which you can realistically make a lot of money from! If you’re interested then you should learn more about Hydroponic Indoor Gardening!

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Why Roof Gardening? As pressure on land keeps on increasing especially in metropolitan areas, roof gardening turns out to be an option. Different reasons comprise enhancing architectural and decorative designs, climate control, own fruit and vegetable supply, home for tiny insects, bees, butterflies, birds, and lizards, among others.

Roof gardening offers amazing recreational opportunities, not only as a leisure pursuit and pastime but promotes personal movement and exercise while taking care of the garden.

It not only encourages greener cities but promotes efficient waste and water recycling, therefore effecting ecological conservation. Green plants help to arrest excess carbon dioxide brought about by transportation vehicles and businesses which causes global warming.

Consideration of the weight of the soil should be based on the strength of the building’s floor block. If you plan to build your own house, let the architect and the engineer be informed that you would intend to do roof gardening.

Lighter soil types must be utilized, like peat moss and soil rite. If these are unavailable, try a combination of garden soil (50%) saw dust (30%) and sand pebbles (20%), such a soil combination is not only lightweight but additionally increases water retention and root growth You would never appreaciate damp surroundings on your roof. To let excess water to drain off, put a coating of waterproof bitumen on the floor.

Throughout construction stage, water-resistant cement should be used on the floor. But, you may place burnt bricks (2″x4″ inches) next, place a net lawn on top to maintain soil on place. If the area is huge, place pipes along several places that lead to the major drainage holes and make sure they are coated by the soil. You may also improvise with covers to hold off heavy rains from damaging your crops, as indeed scorching sun.

Jason Myers is a professional writer and he writes mostly about gardening related tips. He’s also interested in landscaping and outdoor decorating news.

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That’s why many individuals who are committed to hydroponics will look into purchasing or constructing a greenhouse.

Growing your plants in a greenhouse is preferable in many ways to just setting them up in an unused area of your home. You’ll find that if you have your garden inside a greenhouse it’s much simpler to create an environment which will permit it to thrive.

Temperature, ventilation and lighting are all easier to control. As well, you need lots of room in order to install the irrigation and lighting systems that are needed for hydroponic gardening. You can install this equipment precisely where you need it in a greenhouse. Controlling the water and lighting are more imperative in a hydroponics garden compared to a normal garden.

Lighting is in fact the main reason why a greenhouse is so ideal for a hydroponic garden. When you grow plants hydroponically, it is vital that they get adequate amounts of light. But it is also important to remember that too much direct light allows algae to grow and that is not useful.

In a greenhouse setting, daylight is filtered and diffused naturally. It’s even possible to regulate the lighting level and angle of sunlight with blinds or shutters. Less energy consumption is another advantage as you won’t need to continually run the hydroponic lights.

When you have a greenhouse, you’ll see that the system for providing nutrients to your plants is less difficult to set up and maintain. This is vital to how well your hydroponic specimens grow and thrive. When plants grow in solution rather than the ground, the pH content can change more rapidly.

There will be great variations in alkaline and acid levels because it’s all dependent on the water. With a greenhouse, it’s not difficult to implement an automated system of pH control, which gives you a break from forever checking the levels.

The temperature reading is also imperative in terms of hydroponic gardening. You’ll be able to keep heaters at bay when a greenhouse is well built as it does a decent job at maintaining the temperature.

This is particularly useful if you live somewhere that gets cold but has plenty of sun. You can also install air vents and fans to regulate the temperature in your greenhouse even more exactly.

There is a good selection of greenhouses kits to be found, however you can also build one yourself from scratch. The scope of the available models and sizes is quite large. Should your hydroponic garden become larger you can add on to a number of the greenhouse packages that are available. As you can see, many worthwhile factors exist for using a greenhouse for hydroponic gardening.

Hydroponics is an increasingly popular technique for year-round, indoor gardening. Find out more at Hydroponic Gardening.

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Soil is always the key to a healthy plant. For containers and hanging baskets use an artificial soil composed mostly of peat moss.  Good soils such as Fafard or Pro-Mix use perlite, peat, and other ingredients to produce a soil that will not compact over the summer.  I also use homemade compost in my container plants. (It makes great compost tea.)

Real garden soil compacts and turns into concrete under the pressure of regular watering.  And when that happens the plant roots stop growing because they require good open spaces to move into and absorb nutrients. Hard, compacted soils do not grow good plants so do not use real soil in your containers. It’s also lighter than real soil.

Tip: I re-use my artificial potting soil from year to year.  I dump it out of the pot when the season is over or the plant needs re-potted. Break up the soil mix with a shovel to cut up all last year’s roots. Next add approximately 10 % of compost. The compost will create air spaces and gives plants a boost of nutrients.

Feed your plants regularly.  Nitrogen is needed by all plants and is used up quickly.  I use a fish-emulsion liquid feed with seaweed to provide all the trace nutrients my plants require.  I also use compost tea, which I have a supply on hand at all times. You can use any liquid plant food (like Miracle Grow) to promote growth.

Watering your plants. And finally, no matter the size of the container, it is important to soak it all the way to the bottom at each watering.  Continue watering until water emerges from the pot bottom.  This ensures the roots can reach all parts of the container and grow properly. I also set all my container plants on pebbles that sit on trays. This adds humidity around the plant and also makes sure the plant has drained well. Plants do not like wet feet (roots).

photo credit: daryl_mitchell

These tips will keep your container plants and indoor plants healthy.

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Have you ever wanted to learn how mushrooms grow? The task of growing your own mushrooms may seem like a lot of pressure initially, but it is a good experience and is now a lot less harder than ever to start due to the availability of DVD’s and mushroom starter kits.

photo credit: polandeze

In order to grow mushrooms, you will need to know the basic process, conditions for growing, environmental conditions and several other factors. The general process of growing mushrooms is as follows:

The first thing to do is to procure spores or spawns of the mushroom you want to grow. spores or spawns are also known as agar cultures or test tube cultures. You can either make it yourself or purchase it from a supplier.

Step two… Prepare some sawdust or sterilized grain and inject the spores into the sterilized grain so that mushroom spawns can form. Spawns can also be purchased from suppliers.

Step Three… Depending on what type of mushrooms you are wanting to grow will most likely determine what materials you will need. Various strains of mushrooms grow better in soil while others prefer woody materials like straw, wood chips and even tree stumps and logs.

Step Four… use the spawns to activate the growth of mycelium, the fibrous network of mushrooms. For mushrooms that grow in soil, it is best to use compost to feed the mushrooms because they need to gather nutrients from a source because they can’t make their own food since they have no chlorophyll.

Step Five… you will need to layer the compost with material that does not have a lot of nutrients, like peat moss. The purpose of this is to encourage the growth of the mushrooms or fruiting bodies. The top layer will retain moisture while preventing the growth of other bacteria and/or unwanted microorganisms, therefore the reason why you want to use something that has little to no nutrients to avoid the growth of other organisms.
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Finally, all you do is wait until the first flush appears then you can harvest and enjoy your edible mushrooms. Usually that happens within a few weeks and every additional flush occurs within 10 or so days. In the meantime you should be aware of keeping the compost bed moist and within the optimal growing temperature. You can get about 3-5 flushes before you will need to buy a new kit. This applies mainly to soil based mushrooms. A mushroom log can last much longer.

The strain of mushrooms you choose to grow will most likely determine which steps you must go through and which you can skip. For beginners and novices it would be best to experiment with a mushroom grow kit to avoid some of the earlier steps which require more work and attention.

You now have a basic knowledge of the process of how to grow mushrooms. It can be a rewarding experience if you take the time to learn how to grow your own mushrooms. Here’s to a successful first harvest!

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Fall is a perfect time to buy or order bulbs and many are on sale. By surfing the web or picking up a few gardening magazines you can get an idea of what bulbs will do well in you area and purchase them now before the selection has been picked over.

If necessary, you may want to chill the bulbs such as tulips and hyacinths (which need a certain amount of cold weather to bloom properly) by storing them in the refrigerator for six to eight weeks before planting. In my area this is not necessary but in the southern USA you may need to take this step.

Choose the area for your bulbs and work the ground. I like to improve the soil by adding organic matter. Leaves, compost and mulch are my choices. Soil preparation is not always necessary as long as drainage is good and the soil has not been overused for gardening.

How to plant bulbs outdoors

With a shovel or trowel, dig holes the appropriate depth for your bulb type. The package the bulbs were packed in or catalogs on bulbs will help you determine the proper planting depth.

A rule of thumb is to plant the bulb a depth of two to three times the width of the bulb.

Add bulb fertilizer to the bottom of the hole when planting and roughly mix it into the soil. If you don’t buy premixed bulb fertilizer you can use compost.

Place the bulb in the hole and make sure you have the right side up (usually point up, roots down). The bottom of the bulb should rest firmly on the bottom of the hole.
photo credit: sabianmaggy

There are a few bulbs that it is hard to determine the top from the bottom. When this happens, I plant them on their sides. They will still grow.

Refill the planting hole and tamp the soil lightly. Water the bulbs thoroughly.

I watch to make sure I don’t have small animals dig up the bulbs. Tip: If you have squirrels, plant your bulbs in a bucket that has no bottom or in a wire cage. The plants can grow out of the wire but the squirrels will have a difficult time eating the bulbs.

Many bulbs do well under deciduous trees in the spring. They will bloom before the tree leaves out and creates too much shade and the tree will help you find the bulbs before they grow.

Bulbs can  grow easily in pots and containers. By growing bubs in container you can move them indoors or outdoors, add color early in  the spring and protect bulbs if you have squirrel or deer damage problems.

There are also many exotic bulbs and tropical bulbs that will add color and fragrance to your home in the winter months.

For more information on bulbs check out the spring bulb article on Best Flower Gardening.

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When planting Peonies plant as soon as they are obtained, being careful to set the division so that the top of the buds will be from 1-1/2 to two inches below the final soil grade after the plants are watered and have finished settling.
photo credit: my_southborough

If planted too deep you will probably get pretty foliage with a few or no blooms, and if too shallow, the buds will be exposed and are likely to get broken off by Old Shep when he serves notice on a stray cat or rabbit.

You should expect blooms from three to five eye divisions the first season. Only seven of the 60 varieties I planted in my garden a few years ago failed to bloom the first year. The plants made a splendid display of flowers the third season after planting.

Digging and dividing large, old peony clumps is no easy task, as most gardeners have learned. If the freshly-dug clump is left exposed to the air for a while, the roots will become less brittle and are more easily handled without breaking. The soil which is tightly held by the roots is best removed with a stream of water from the hose.

Do not simply cut the clump in half and plant the two peonies without removing any of the old large roots. Such divisions depend upon the old roots for nourishment and seldom bloom. The clump should be cut into smaller divisions, usually with from three to five eyes, some of the older roots removed and the others shortened to about six inches.

This method stimulates the production of new roots which increases the plant’s vigor and productiveness. A stout butcher knife and a hammer are good division tools. Established plants may be fertilized in early spring with a handful of balanced plant food applied in a ring around each plant and stirred into the soil.
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To Preserve Color

Most peony flowers fade in sunlight and if left to open and stand in the sun they lose much of their delicate beauty. If you wish to use peonies for display in a flower show or as a bouquet in the home, cut the flowers and let them open in the dark or at least in partial shade. Do not cut stems so long that all of the leaves are taken with the stalk. This would tend to weaken the plant.

Peonies which are properly planted and maintained are seldom bothered by diseases. The foliage is hardly ever attacked by insect pests. Plants should be carefully watched and if any disease occurs the affected parts should be removed and destroyed.

Root knot, leaf spot and botrytis blight are the three most common ailments. Root knot can be avoided by planting clean, healthy divisions in disease-free soil. New plants should not be set in an old bed where root knot has occurred. If the plants are properly spaced, very little damage is done by leaf spot.

Botrytis blight is likely to be the most serious peony disease and sometimes in orchid plants. It affects stems, buds and leaves just like in caring for orchid plants. Young stalks in early spring suddenly wilt and fall over, and young buds turn black and dry up. Later on, larger buds which become infected turn brown and fail to open up.

For control, remove and destroy all infected parts as soon as they appear. Cut off all tops near the crowns in the fall and burn. If severe infestation has occurred before, remove the upper two inches of soil around the plants and replace with fresh disease-free soil.

Also as a preventive measure in the spring, spray the young shoots as soon as they appear, with Bordeaux mixture 2-2-50 or a copper fungicide mixture. Two or three successive sprays should follow at weekly intervals.

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If you are planning to use the herbs, you should harvest them first but before doing so, you should consider the time you will harvest a certain herb. The weather at a certain place affects the good harvest of a herb.

Some herbs are affected by the season especially during harvest time. Their essential oils can be dispersed by the wind and the heat. It is already a common practice that herbs are harvested during dry season because herbs have fewer oils during the wet season.

If you harvest a herb, you only get a certain part of it and not the entire plant. Harvesting the herb does not mean you have to use it at once at the time you picked them but you can preserve them by keeping it in the refrigerator. In harvesting, you have to inspect for insects and leaves that are damaged.

Typically the  owner of a home herb garden knows that there are three ways to preserve their herbs for later use; drying, freezing, or preserving them in a medium like salt or vinegar.

In order to dry herbs you need to bundle six to twelve stems together and remove any foliage near the base of the stems. You can secure the bundle with string. The home herb garden enthusiasts protects the bundle in a cool location away from sunlight.

If you are looking to dry individual leaves you can place them on a screen or a rack. Remember to turn them often in order for them to dry properly.

Some people who have a home herb garden have turned to using appliances like dehydrators, ovens or microwaves to dry herbs as well although these are less satisfactory ways.

Freezing herbs is a fairy simple way to preserve herbs. Cut the herbs into inch pieces and place on a baking sheet lined with wax paper. Once the herbs are frozen, you can place them together in a bag and store them in the freezer until use.

The third way to preserve herbs in home herb gardens is through a medium. For instance, you can cover herbs like chopped mint, basil or tarragon with vinegar and it will be preserved for several months. Or you can make a flavored salt to preserve herbs by alternating layers of fresh herbs between salt. When completely dry separate the brown herb from the flavored salt and store it in an airtight container.

Of course, the home herb gardener often use herbs fresh right out of the garden. Take care cleaning the herbs before they are placed fresh in recipes.

In order to clean fresh herbs place them in a bowl filled with cool water. If there is a large quantity of herbs you can use the sink. Place about two tablespoons of salt in the water. The salt in the water will drive away insects without damaging the plant. Remove the herbs from the water and dry them in a salad spinner.
photo credit: themissiah

Herbs have different types. They also have different uses and different ways on how to harvest them. Whatever herb you have in your own garden, you should have the proper knowledge and background for them to be used and cared properly.

Jack Grant is an herb garden lover and improved his skills in Italy. Get the secrets on how to cultivate your own Home Herb Garden and get FREE tips. Click here.

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Here in NW Pa the rain and cold ended many crops early and quite a few people just turned the gardens under and will plan for a more successful garden next season.
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I moved most of my gardens under glass or used raised beds so my crops lived. They didn’t have as large of crops as usual but there were fresh vegetables.

And there are very few apples in the area this year. I have many trees so there will be apples but not the large selection I usually have. I also will not be pressing apple cider. But blueberries are doing well so I will freeze some of those to put away for those cold winter days.

When planning for next year you may want to look at using raised beds for easier gardening and the ease of covering your crops against too much rain or cold nights.

By adding plastic piping that can be bent in a U shape you can make a tunnel and cover it with plastic for cold and rain protection. I may even have to cover the gardens soon for frost protection.

Yes, a few places just above me may get their first frost in August! They are calling for possible frost in upstate New York.
photo credit: lepiaf.geo

So tell me how your garden turn out and do you plan to plant a winter garden? It’s amazing what you can grow indooors in the winter.

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