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People are either for or against the use of natural insecticides.  These decisions are often decided by circumstances.  How advanced is the insect infestation?  What are you allergic to?  What will harm your plants?  What will be safe to use around your children pets or livestock?  What is available and accessible to you and how fast can you get it?  Do you need to use more than one method of control and removal? And with today’s economy, what is cost effective?

To get the most benefit from natural insecticides, you’ll need to understand the best way to use them.  What will work best for the type of insect you’re trying to control? But even with natural mixes you need to be careful what you mix.  Certain combinations of substances are unsafe or toxic.

One of the biggest benefits of a natural insecticide is that it comes from nature in some form.  That doesn’t mean it’s problem-free.  It just means you’re benefiting the environment by using a safer product that is not full of toxic chemicals.

An example is liquid garlic. Garlic is a natural plant that is grown around the world.  It can be used to keep insects off garden or farm plants. Mix with water and a dash of dish soap and this easy solution will ward off many insects.

Another example is boric acid.  Boric acid is defined as a white crystalline weak acid that contains boron.  Boron is a mineral substance, and minerals are of the earth.

If you use things made with what the earth provides, you benefit and so does the earth, animals and humans.  Natural insecticides are not always the quickest way to solve your insect problem.  And it’s not always less harmful.  That’s why education on your choices is a must.

On-line sites will help you with natural insect mixes and green gardening techniques.  And you will find additional information at your local library or gardening books.

I have used natural insect control for many years. I have noticed the longer I use natural insecticides the less insects I seem to have and the healthier my overall yard is.

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Unfortunately I have too many favorites but I always like any tomato seeds and hot pepper seeds. The ornamental pepper plants are beautiful and make great indoor plants.

I prefer heirloom seeds to hybrid seeds. I like the older variety of vegetables and flowers and feel heirloom seeds are better for the environment. But I do understand why some people prefer hybrid seeds.

I like the Malabar spinach because it’s edible and beautiful. It makes a great patio or balcony plant. Being a warm climate plant I start this seed indoors.

The rattail radish makes a great ornamental plant and keeps squash bugs out of the garden. The radishes grow skinny and long – like a bean. It also grows on the plant instead of in the ground. The radish is ok for eating if you use it when its small, but I really like using the seeds for a ground mustard. This radish is a bit warm to the taste.

And I like any and all gourd seeds. Gourds are fascinating to grow, cure and decorate. It’s a plant that adds variety and interest to the garden areas.

I guess that’s why I like different seeds. It add fun to the garden while you are waiting to see what the plant looks like and if it’s really as interesting as it sounded on the seed packet or in the garden catalog.

If you haven’t ordered you seeds yet for your gardens, do it now so that you will get the seeds you want.

And here is a link for free seeds - Free seeds. I use the “grow a row for the poor” seed offer every year. The seeds grow well and its for a good case.

So what’s your favorite seed?

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Garlic will grow all year round in mild climates although in colder climates, like in the UK, planting Garlic is best around autumn so the plants will grow slowly throughout the winter frost and start to flower around spring. Garlic is a Perennial with long green flat leaves and white flowers.

Garlic is available in two varieties, hardneck (also known as ‘top-setting’) and softneck.

Hardneck Garlic is well suited to growing in cold climates and the bulb produces one layer of cloves which is much larger than those of softneck. The cloves of hardneck garlic also have a stronger flavour and are easier to peel than softneck. However, they do not keep as long in storage.

Softneck cloves last much longer in storage and are more readily available.

Planting your Garlic

Garlic seeds can be rare so it is more common to grow garlic from the bulb segments (cloves) which you can obtain from a specialist garden center or even from your local supermarket.

Before planting your garlic cloves you should prepare the soil by working in compost and make sure the area of your garden has good drainage as cold wet cloves will rot. To improve drainage you should consider constructing a raised bed to grow the garlic in. Since garlic has shallow roots you will only need a 5 inch high bed.

You should split the bulbs just before you intend to plant and discard any damaged or small cloves, and try to use the biggest clove as this will produce a bigger bulb.

When planting the cloves it is better to use a planting drill because pushing the cloves into the ground may inhibit root development. In cold climates the cloves should be planted to a depth of 4 inches whilst milder climates will be fine with a depth of 2 inches.

Spacing is important to properly grow garlic; you should plant your cloves in a row setting them 6-8 inches apart for softneck and 4-6 inches apart for hardneck. If you plan on setting additional rows leave 12 inches between rows. After planting, water your crop thoroughly and mulch with leaves if available.

Care for your Garlic

Depending on the weather, after planting your crop in autumn you may not need to water again until Spring. From spring onwards you should water your crop regularly but don’t over water or allow your crop to become soggy or else your bulbs will rot.

If you applied mulch when planting your crop there should be few weeds. Be sure to check your mulch is not retaining moisture, if so reduce the mulch and cultivate the soil as needed to keep your crop free of weeds.

Harvesting your Garlic

You can expect to harvest your crop in late spring/early summer. A sign that your crop is ready for harvesting is when the leaves begin to turn yellow and bend over. When you see that a quarter of the leaves have dried up you should pick a couple of bulbs to check them.

Ripe bulbs should have a firm skin and the inner cloves should be fully separated. Don’t delay if your crop is ready – you should harvest right away. Use a garden fork to gently loosen the bulbs out of the soil.

After picking all your bulbs you need to cure your crop – this can be done in a greenhouse, shed or even a garage, and curing normally takes one to four weeks. Fully cured garlic plants will have a completely dry outer skin.

Once your garlic is fully cured you should clip and gentle brush off any excess soil. When clipping leaves and you find any moisture then your bulbs have not fully cured.

You can store fully dried bulbs in baskets, string bags or sacks in a frost-free dark shed or garage.

For more great tips and advice on how to grow Garlic, visit http://www.rassad.co.uk/grow-garlic-at-home.

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Insect Free: Taking all old leaves and plant debris off of your garden is the best way to prevent insects from overwintering in your garden. Old leaves on the soil surface provide a nice hiding place for insects, such as squash bugs, grasshoppers, and aphids. If you clear out old leaves and stems and compost them, insects have nowhere to hide. Freezing temperatures will help control next year’s insect population, and reduced debris on the soil surface will ensure freezing temperatures for insects on the sol surface.

Disease Free: Leaf and vegetable litter provides a place for other problems to reside also, such as tomato wilt. Collecting and throwing away diseased plants in the garbage or landfill will help keep diseases from reestablishing themselves next season. Many gardeners had difficulty with tomato blight, or wilt this past year. If this was the case in your garden, it is especially important to clear off all plants and fruits from this past season. Most spores from the tomato wilt will be thrown away with the plants and fruit.

Organisms in the soil will have time over the winter to decompose and distribute nutrients to the soil from compost for next year’s vegetables. Spread one to two inches of well-decomposed compost on the surface of your garden bed and turn into the soil well. Soil microorganisms will do the rest.

You can plant some early spring vegetables for early harvest in the spring after preparing your soil bed. These seeds will not germinate until soil temperatures warm enough for them to grow. Sowing spinach seeds, and planting your first couple rows of peas will allow for the earliest harvest. Garlic should be planted in the late fall, also, and should be planted in a drier bed than your peas and spinach.

You can finally sit back and enjoy that cup of tea after your fall beds are tilled and prepared for next season. Then you can start planning for next spring.

Betsy Woodworth gives help on greenhouses and on garden tips.

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Below is a list of advantages to hydroponic indoor gardening when compared to traditional soil based gardening:

1. Once you have made your initial set-up costs, hydroponic gardening is around 20% less expensive to run.

2. You can plant more hydroponic plants in a smaller area. This is because the roots do not need to grow as large as they have easier access to nutrients. This is despite your plants actually growing larger too!

3. Maintenance time is greatly reduced! There is of course no need to water hydroponic plants and weeding doesn’t exist either! All you’ll ever need to do is pick the plants once they are ready!

4. The yield is year round and permanent as you have full control over growing conditions and you will have made them optimum for whatever you are growing. This is great for when it’s off season as you can sell them for higher prices.

5. You can grow them anywhere; basement, living room, bedroom, corridor, attic, greenhouse, garage or rooftop.

6. Your hydroponic indoor gardening will result in a crop that is on average 40% larger. This is because you have created the ideal environment for them and they have constant access to nutrients.

7. As you will not be watering them, there is no danger of them being over or under watered. This is a common mistake with many novice gardeners.

8. For the reasons listed above, your plants will grow up to 50% faster. This is great if you have a large family to feed or you’re planning on selling them.

9. There is no need to have a garden for hydroponic indoor gardening. So if you live in the arctic or the desert you’re fine! More realistically, if you live in a high rise apartment block you can still do it!

Hydroponic Indoor Gardening is a fun and exciting hobby which you can realistically make a lot of money from! If you’re interested then you should learn more about Hydroponic Indoor Gardening!

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Why Roof Gardening? As pressure on land keeps on increasing especially in metropolitan areas, roof gardening turns out to be an option. Different reasons comprise enhancing architectural and decorative designs, climate control, own fruit and vegetable supply, home for tiny insects, bees, butterflies, birds, and lizards, among others.

Roof gardening offers amazing recreational opportunities, not only as a leisure pursuit and pastime but promotes personal movement and exercise while taking care of the garden.

It not only encourages greener cities but promotes efficient waste and water recycling, therefore effecting ecological conservation. Green plants help to arrest excess carbon dioxide brought about by transportation vehicles and businesses which causes global warming.

Consideration of the weight of the soil should be based on the strength of the building’s floor block. If you plan to build your own house, let the architect and the engineer be informed that you would intend to do roof gardening.

Lighter soil types must be utilized, like peat moss and soil rite. If these are unavailable, try a combination of garden soil (50%) saw dust (30%) and sand pebbles (20%), such a soil combination is not only lightweight but additionally increases water retention and root growth You would never appreaciate damp surroundings on your roof. To let excess water to drain off, put a coating of waterproof bitumen on the floor.

Throughout construction stage, water-resistant cement should be used on the floor. But, you may place burnt bricks (2″x4″ inches) next, place a net lawn on top to maintain soil on place. If the area is huge, place pipes along several places that lead to the major drainage holes and make sure they are coated by the soil. You may also improvise with covers to hold off heavy rains from damaging your crops, as indeed scorching sun.

Jason Myers is a professional writer and he writes mostly about gardening related tips. He’s also interested in landscaping and outdoor decorating news.

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That’s why many individuals who are committed to hydroponics will look into purchasing or constructing a greenhouse.

Growing your plants in a greenhouse is preferable in many ways to just setting them up in an unused area of your home. You’ll find that if you have your garden inside a greenhouse it’s much simpler to create an environment which will permit it to thrive.

Temperature, ventilation and lighting are all easier to control. As well, you need lots of room in order to install the irrigation and lighting systems that are needed for hydroponic gardening. You can install this equipment precisely where you need it in a greenhouse. Controlling the water and lighting are more imperative in a hydroponics garden compared to a normal garden.

Lighting is in fact the main reason why a greenhouse is so ideal for a hydroponic garden. When you grow plants hydroponically, it is vital that they get adequate amounts of light. But it is also important to remember that too much direct light allows algae to grow and that is not useful.

In a greenhouse setting, daylight is filtered and diffused naturally. It’s even possible to regulate the lighting level and angle of sunlight with blinds or shutters. Less energy consumption is another advantage as you won’t need to continually run the hydroponic lights.

When you have a greenhouse, you’ll see that the system for providing nutrients to your plants is less difficult to set up and maintain. This is vital to how well your hydroponic specimens grow and thrive. When plants grow in solution rather than the ground, the pH content can change more rapidly.

There will be great variations in alkaline and acid levels because it’s all dependent on the water. With a greenhouse, it’s not difficult to implement an automated system of pH control, which gives you a break from forever checking the levels.

The temperature reading is also imperative in terms of hydroponic gardening. You’ll be able to keep heaters at bay when a greenhouse is well built as it does a decent job at maintaining the temperature.

This is particularly useful if you live somewhere that gets cold but has plenty of sun. You can also install air vents and fans to regulate the temperature in your greenhouse even more exactly.

There is a good selection of greenhouses kits to be found, however you can also build one yourself from scratch. The scope of the available models and sizes is quite large. Should your hydroponic garden become larger you can add on to a number of the greenhouse packages that are available. As you can see, many worthwhile factors exist for using a greenhouse for hydroponic gardening.

Hydroponics is an increasingly popular technique for year-round, indoor gardening. Find out more at Hydroponic Gardening.

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Soil is always the key to a healthy plant. For containers and hanging baskets use an artificial soil composed mostly of peat moss.  Good soils such as Fafard or Pro-Mix use perlite, peat, and other ingredients to produce a soil that will not compact over the summer.  I also use homemade compost in my container plants. (It makes great compost tea.)

Real garden soil compacts and turns into concrete under the pressure of regular watering.  And when that happens the plant roots stop growing because they require good open spaces to move into and absorb nutrients. Hard, compacted soils do not grow good plants so do not use real soil in your containers. It’s also lighter than real soil.

Tip: I re-use my artificial potting soil from year to year.  I dump it out of the pot when the season is over or the plant needs re-potted. Break up the soil mix with a shovel to cut up all last year’s roots. Next add approximately 10 % of compost. The compost will create air spaces and gives plants a boost of nutrients.

Feed your plants regularly.  Nitrogen is needed by all plants and is used up quickly.  I use a fish-emulsion liquid feed with seaweed to provide all the trace nutrients my plants require.  I also use compost tea, which I have a supply on hand at all times. You can use any liquid plant food (like Miracle Grow) to promote growth.

Watering your plants. And finally, no matter the size of the container, it is important to soak it all the way to the bottom at each watering.  Continue watering until water emerges from the pot bottom.  This ensures the roots can reach all parts of the container and grow properly. I also set all my container plants on pebbles that sit on trays. This adds humidity around the plant and also makes sure the plant has drained well. Plants do not like wet feet (roots).

photo credit: daryl_mitchell

These tips will keep your container plants and indoor plants healthy.

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© Denise for The Gardener's Rake, 2009. | Permalink | 8 comments | Add to del.icio.us
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Have you ever wanted to learn how mushrooms grow? The task of growing your own mushrooms may seem like a lot of pressure initially, but it is a good experience and is now a lot less harder than ever to start due to the availability of DVD’s and mushroom starter kits.

photo credit: polandeze

In order to grow mushrooms, you will need to know the basic process, conditions for growing, environmental conditions and several other factors. The general process of growing mushrooms is as follows:

The first thing to do is to procure spores or spawns of the mushroom you want to grow. spores or spawns are also known as agar cultures or test tube cultures. You can either make it yourself or purchase it from a supplier.

Step two… Prepare some sawdust or sterilized grain and inject the spores into the sterilized grain so that mushroom spawns can form. Spawns can also be purchased from suppliers.

Step Three… Depending on what type of mushrooms you are wanting to grow will most likely determine what materials you will need. Various strains of mushrooms grow better in soil while others prefer woody materials like straw, wood chips and even tree stumps and logs.

Step Four… use the spawns to activate the growth of mycelium, the fibrous network of mushrooms. For mushrooms that grow in soil, it is best to use compost to feed the mushrooms because they need to gather nutrients from a source because they can’t make their own food since they have no chlorophyll.

Step Five… you will need to layer the compost with material that does not have a lot of nutrients, like peat moss. The purpose of this is to encourage the growth of the mushrooms or fruiting bodies. The top layer will retain moisture while preventing the growth of other bacteria and/or unwanted microorganisms, therefore the reason why you want to use something that has little to no nutrients to avoid the growth of other organisms.
photo credit: chatirygirl

Finally, all you do is wait until the first flush appears then you can harvest and enjoy your edible mushrooms. Usually that happens within a few weeks and every additional flush occurs within 10 or so days. In the meantime you should be aware of keeping the compost bed moist and within the optimal growing temperature. You can get about 3-5 flushes before you will need to buy a new kit. This applies mainly to soil based mushrooms. A mushroom log can last much longer.

The strain of mushrooms you choose to grow will most likely determine which steps you must go through and which you can skip. For beginners and novices it would be best to experiment with a mushroom grow kit to avoid some of the earlier steps which require more work and attention.

You now have a basic knowledge of the process of how to grow mushrooms. It can be a rewarding experience if you take the time to learn how to grow your own mushrooms. Here’s to a successful first harvest!

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Fall is a perfect time to buy or order bulbs and many are on sale. By surfing the web or picking up a few gardening magazines you can get an idea of what bulbs will do well in you area and purchase them now before the selection has been picked over.

If necessary, you may want to chill the bulbs such as tulips and hyacinths (which need a certain amount of cold weather to bloom properly) by storing them in the refrigerator for six to eight weeks before planting. In my area this is not necessary but in the southern USA you may need to take this step.

Choose the area for your bulbs and work the ground. I like to improve the soil by adding organic matter. Leaves, compost and mulch are my choices. Soil preparation is not always necessary as long as drainage is good and the soil has not been overused for gardening.

How to plant bulbs outdoors

With a shovel or trowel, dig holes the appropriate depth for your bulb type. The package the bulbs were packed in or catalogs on bulbs will help you determine the proper planting depth.

A rule of thumb is to plant the bulb a depth of two to three times the width of the bulb.

Add bulb fertilizer to the bottom of the hole when planting and roughly mix it into the soil. If you don’t buy premixed bulb fertilizer you can use compost.

Place the bulb in the hole and make sure you have the right side up (usually point up, roots down). The bottom of the bulb should rest firmly on the bottom of the hole.
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There are a few bulbs that it is hard to determine the top from the bottom. When this happens, I plant them on their sides. They will still grow.

Refill the planting hole and tamp the soil lightly. Water the bulbs thoroughly.

I watch to make sure I don’t have small animals dig up the bulbs. Tip: If you have squirrels, plant your bulbs in a bucket that has no bottom or in a wire cage. The plants can grow out of the wire but the squirrels will have a difficult time eating the bulbs.

Many bulbs do well under deciduous trees in the spring. They will bloom before the tree leaves out and creates too much shade and the tree will help you find the bulbs before they grow.

Bulbs can  grow easily in pots and containers. By growing bubs in container you can move them indoors or outdoors, add color early in  the spring and protect bulbs if you have squirrel or deer damage problems.

There are also many exotic bulbs and tropical bulbs that will add color and fragrance to your home in the winter months.

For more information on bulbs check out the spring bulb article on Best Flower Gardening.

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© Denise for The Gardener's Rake, 2009. | Permalink | 5 comments | Add to del.icio.us
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