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A plot this size, planted with the vegetables below, can feed a family of four for one summer. There will also be a little extra for canning and freezing or giving away.

There are vegetables that may yield more than one crop per season. These are beans, beets, carrots, cabbage, kohlrabi, lettuce, radishes, rutabagas, spinach and turnips. For the plan below, your rows or raised beds should run north and south to take full advantage of the sun.

Garden plan

Make your garden 11 rows of 10 feet each or use 2 to 3 raised beds. Plant the following vegetables:

Tomatoes — 5 plants staked

Zucchini squash — 4 plants or two of zucchini and tow other squash varieties

Peppers — 6 plants

Cabbage

Bush beans

Beets

Carrots

Chard

Lettuce, leaf, Bibb or a mix variety

Radish

Grow marigolds to discourage rabbits and some insect varieties! Geraniums also discourage some insects and any flower adds beauty to a garden.

Leave 2 feet between bush beans, 1/2 foot between bush beans and lettuce, and 1 foot between all of the rest.

This is a simple easy garden plan. As you garden you can add new vegetables, get rid of others and experiment with different styles of gardening.

I started out using rows, went to square foot gardening to make better use of my space,

Note: If this garden is too large for your needs, you do not have to plant all 11 rows. You can also make the rows shorter. You can choose the veggies that you’d like to grow or add more flowers!

Tip: Radishes planted by the base of a squash plant will deter squash bugs. Radishes also mature quickly so only plants a few seeds at a time.

If you’re interested in planting potatoes, tomatoes and potatoes are not ideal companions and need “distance.” I myself plant them in barrels or bushel baskets so that I can just dump the crop at the end of the season for easy harvesting.

And for the beginning gardener. Read the instructions on the back of the seed packet. It will let you know how long the crop takes to mature, proper spacing and it will help you determine if you can grow two crops in a season.

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Garlic will grow all year round in mild climates although in colder climates, like in the UK, planting Garlic is best around autumn so the plants will grow slowly throughout the winter frost and start to flower around spring. Garlic is a Perennial with long green flat leaves and white flowers.

Garlic is available in two varieties, hardneck (also known as ‘top-setting’) and softneck.

Hardneck Garlic is well suited to growing in cold climates and the bulb produces one layer of cloves which is much larger than those of softneck. The cloves of hardneck garlic also have a stronger flavour and are easier to peel than softneck. However, they do not keep as long in storage.

Softneck cloves last much longer in storage and are more readily available.

Planting your Garlic

Garlic seeds can be rare so it is more common to grow garlic from the bulb segments (cloves) which you can obtain from a specialist garden center or even from your local supermarket.

Before planting your garlic cloves you should prepare the soil by working in compost and make sure the area of your garden has good drainage as cold wet cloves will rot. To improve drainage you should consider constructing a raised bed to grow the garlic in. Since garlic has shallow roots you will only need a 5 inch high bed.

You should split the bulbs just before you intend to plant and discard any damaged or small cloves, and try to use the biggest clove as this will produce a bigger bulb.

When planting the cloves it is better to use a planting drill because pushing the cloves into the ground may inhibit root development. In cold climates the cloves should be planted to a depth of 4 inches whilst milder climates will be fine with a depth of 2 inches.

Spacing is important to properly grow garlic; you should plant your cloves in a row setting them 6-8 inches apart for softneck and 4-6 inches apart for hardneck. If you plan on setting additional rows leave 12 inches between rows. After planting, water your crop thoroughly and mulch with leaves if available.

Care for your Garlic

Depending on the weather, after planting your crop in autumn you may not need to water again until Spring. From spring onwards you should water your crop regularly but don’t over water or allow your crop to become soggy or else your bulbs will rot.

If you applied mulch when planting your crop there should be few weeds. Be sure to check your mulch is not retaining moisture, if so reduce the mulch and cultivate the soil as needed to keep your crop free of weeds.

Harvesting your Garlic

You can expect to harvest your crop in late spring/early summer. A sign that your crop is ready for harvesting is when the leaves begin to turn yellow and bend over. When you see that a quarter of the leaves have dried up you should pick a couple of bulbs to check them.

Ripe bulbs should have a firm skin and the inner cloves should be fully separated. Don’t delay if your crop is ready – you should harvest right away. Use a garden fork to gently loosen the bulbs out of the soil.

After picking all your bulbs you need to cure your crop – this can be done in a greenhouse, shed or even a garage, and curing normally takes one to four weeks. Fully cured garlic plants will have a completely dry outer skin.

Once your garlic is fully cured you should clip and gentle brush off any excess soil. When clipping leaves and you find any moisture then your bulbs have not fully cured.

You can store fully dried bulbs in baskets, string bags or sacks in a frost-free dark shed or garage.

For more great tips and advice on how to grow Garlic, visit http://www.rassad.co.uk/grow-garlic-at-home.

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And the heavy rain created sickly plants that were the perfect target for any disease. Even a garden that was well maintained and weeded fell prey to blight. The only people who seemd to do well were those who grew their tomatoes indoors or in a greenhouse.

And of course there is always an exception to any statement or rule. I met an amish man who shared his secret for keeping blight under control. Epsom Salt!

I use epsom salt for pepper plants and cleaning garden tools but I had never heard of using it for tomato blight control.

Jacob told me to use a cup of epsom salt to a 5 gallon bucket of water and spray the plants heavily at the first site of tomato blight. You may wantt o spray the plants once more in a few days.

Jacob has used this method for tomato blight control for years and he always has the perfect crop of tomatoes.

I plan on trying this next year if we have tomato blight again.

photo credit: _e.t

NOTE: If you had tomato blight in your garden make sure you burn the diseased plants. And also change the location of where you plant your tomatoes the following year. This is one disease that will leave the ground infected and more vulnerable to blight the following year.

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Indian corn, also called “Flint” corn, comes in many different colors. It is used primarily for ornamental purposes. But a few varieties are edible and some people buy Indian corn to grind up as flour. Popcorn is also another popular Indian corn variety that is both edible and decorative.

There are many different varieties to choose from. Garden catalogs or the Internet will help you in choosing a variety and colors available.

How to grow Indian corn

It’s best to start growing Indian corn by choosing one variety. Later you may want to grow several varieties.

Buy blue Indian corn if you want to grind up the corn to make blue flour tortillas.  Strawberry Indian corn for popcorn is perfect for ornamental uses and grows to two to three inches. Miniature Indian corn is also great for drafting with and will grow to about six inches.

You will need to start Indian corn as early as possible. Indian corn requires a long growing season of at least three months. The corn needs to mature before the first autumn frosts hit your growing zone.

photo credit: jmuhles

Plant Indian corn at least 100 feet from other types of corn. If you plant several different varieties of corn in the same area, cross-pollination may occur and you might not get the type of corn you planted. I grow several kinds of Indian corn and place them by the barn, garage or row of tress to make sure cross-pollination does not occur.

Grow at least 5 rows of corn. The more rows of Indian corn you grow, the more likely they will pollinate. The rows can even be short, but you need a block of corn to get a better pollination. Corn is wind pollinated, but the closer and you plant corn the better the pollination. And better pollination means a full ear of corn.

Keep the Indian corn well watered during hot summer months. Corn uses a high amount of water for ear production. You may find that using mulch will help retain water in the soil and lead to less watering.

It’s time to harvest the crop after the hair on the corn turns brown. Pull back the husk of the ear of corn slightly and check to see if the corn kernels are formed and full.

Indian corn kernels will likely be all different colors (unless you get a specialty color like blue or red). The kernels should also be firm to the touch and dry. Gently pull down on the “ripe” ear and pop it off the stalk. Hang up the corn for a few days in a warm place to dry. Then it’s ready to use.

When you dry the corn make sure to hang it high so that raccoons or other animals will not be able to reach it.

What I like about Indian corn is you never know what the crop will look like until you peel back the husks. Each ear is like an art piece, colorful and unique.

In a few days there will be an article on making a cornhusk wreath. These wreaths will last for years and add color to your backyard, garden areas and even indoor holiday flair.

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The best chance a gourmet has of getting delicious fruits and vegetables is to raise them himself and this is the best chance he has of keeping in good health too.
photo credit: Sistak

Good home-grown vegetables are both aesthetically better and more practical in terms of use. These are the reasons people who want to raise vegetables they cannot buy and then cook them in ways that will bring out priceless flavor.

It goes without saying that, just as the most brilliant cook can do only so much with stale and tasteless vegetables, so the most delicious vegetables any man ever grew can be quickly spoiled by bad, or even by merely unimaginative, cooking.

The usual fate of the stale vegetables we now buy is to be overcooked. In short, they never had much life, they lost in shipping most of the life they had, and the cook then cooks all the life out of them.

Now Lets start with your garden

Remember that the spot where you plant must have plenty of sun. You can build your own soil if you have to. But you can, not supply sunlight, except maybe by cutting a branch off a tree to let sunlight through or by taking down a board fence. If you live in a small town or in the open country and have a choice of sites, a good piece of ground is one that slopes just enough to drain easily.

If it slopes south or, better still, southeast so much the better. Dig a hole a foot deep and see what kind of soil you have. Normally the top few inches will be much darker and much more crumbly than what lies below. This is your topsoil: it is dark because it contains “humus” decayed vegetable matter. The subsoil below it may contain minerals but it lacks humus.

Put an ounce or two of each in a small container and find out from your County Agricultural Agent or from the Department of Agriculture in your state capital where to send them for analysis.

The analysis you get will tell you whether you need the three elements plants need most, nitrogen, phosphorus, and potassium.

Results of the analysis can also show whether fertilizer and rain are significant factors in your garden.

Also it may be able to determine whether your soil is too acid and needs calcium. If it does, you should spread agricultural lime on it, not quicklime. Commercial lawn fertilizers and garden fertilizers are available which combine nitrogen, phosphorus, and potassium.

If you can’t get your flower bed soil professionally tested, there are now on the market inexpensive “soil kits,” which are advertised in garden magazines and at Amazon.

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Herbs in flower boxes.

Herb plants are always available in garden centers. With their different floral color and textures herbs will make great garden boxes, plus they will add to your culinary cooking selection. Add a few flowers, ceramic pieces or a vegetable or two and you will have a one of a kind window box. Basil, chives, mint and thyme are all good herbs for your window box.

Best Flower Options for Window Boxes

Begonias, geraniums, marigolds, petunias and pansies are a few of the most popular window box flowers. I like the look of spikes for height and hanging vine or two to create a flow and break the window box feel. When using season flowers, they will need to be replaced in late fall and winter with fall flowers such as mums or greenery.

Examples of successful greenery would be green hydrangea, bittersweet and certain ivy.

When selecting flowers you want plants that will stay fairly small, so that they will not outgrow the space. You will also be selecting plants for an abundance of color and long lasting blooms. Or you may decide to go with one or two colors.

Yellow and white flowers are the trendy colors for the 2009 garden season. Ask at your garden center for plants that stay small and keep their blossoms longer.

One other consideration when selecting flowers is low maintenance. Pick a few plants that have beautiful foliage and will stand out on its own. By doing this, even if you other flowers are in between blossoms you will still have vibrant color in your window box.

Window boxes will add  beauty and color to your backyard landscape . It’s a simple way to have a mini garden and the opportunity to switch you backyard look on a monthly or seasonal basis.

Many of these plants and flowers will grow well indoors and will add more color to your home in the winter season. Just place your window bow, indoors, in a window that receives 6 to 8 hours of light a day.

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Most problems seem to be relating back to the weather. Many places have had irregular weather, either too hot and dry or cold nights.

Without seeing a photo I can only guess but here are a few of the more common tomato and tomatillo problems

1. If few flowers are forming on your tomato plants or the flowers drop before setting fruit, possible causes include:

·    Excess nitrogen
·    Too little sun
·    Nighttime temperatures above 70 degrees F or below 50 degrees F
·    Drought stress

Stress seems to cause more problems to the tomato family than other problems and it’s easy to over look. Here are a few possible solutions to your problems.

Avoid soil amendments with soluble nitrogen and make sure plants get a full day of sunlight. Keep the soil evenly moist throughout the season. Mulch covers on top of the soil around your tomato plants with help keep soil moisture even.

At planting time, use a balanced, granular fertilizer that’s made for tomatoes. During the growing season, treat your plants to a water-soluble fertilizer. I use a compost tea for my tomatoes. If you don’t use compost tea, you can ask for advice at your garden center

2. Dark, concentrically ringed spots that cover the lower leaves and stems are a sign of early blight. To control the spread of blight, you can use an organic Garden Dust, available in most garden centers. It’s also important to not get water on the leaves when watering and not handling plants when they are wet. This will also cause early blight to spread.

3. Water-soaked patches on fruit that turn brown, dry and papery are a sign of late blight. The stems might also have blackened areas. To control late blight, spray plants with compost tea, or follow the same program of control as for early blight.

4. Cracks in fruit are usually caused by uneven watering. This tends to happen the most in late summer if you have a dry hot spell that changes to a cool spell. If you use mulch to keep the soil evenly moist you should not have this problem.

5. Yellowed, distorted and curled leaves are usually a sign of an infestation of aphids. Check for signs of aphids on the undersides of leaves or on new growth. Aphids are easily combated with a strong jet of water or an application of neem oil will get aphids under control

Distorted leaves could also be tobacco mosaic virus. This virus causes young growth to be narrow and twisted. The leaves become mottled with yellow. If your plants have tobacco mosaic virus they will need to be removed and destroyed.

Note: do not add infected plants into a compost pile. It’s best to burn them.

Tomatoes and tomatillos are favorites in many gardens but they do tend to have disease and stress related problems.
photo credit: bhamsandwich

Keep them evenly watered, add fertilizer during the season and keep weeds down around the plants. With a watchful eye, they should grow and produce well.

For more information on how to grow the tomatillo check this link: Garden tips: How to grow the Tomatillo, the Tomatoes cousin

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Another part of my garden planning is that the gardens are never just a flower, vegetable or herb garden; they are always a mix of all. All the plants compliment each other and often have insect control benefits when planted side by side.

Geraniums and marigolds help control insects and some small animals so I often use them in garden borders. Okra controls Japanese Beetles so they are grown in pots and moved around the yard. I myself don’t like Okra as a vegetable but it makes a great insect control, has a beautiful flower and works well as a dried crafting material.

The herb, Borage controls insects and tomatoes also like the plant.

In small backyard design spaces and on patios I will plants cucumbers, small melons or climbing beans against the walls or a trellis. Plants lettuce below the vines to save on space, keep the soil cool and add a lush full look to your plantings.

Use lettuce leaf lettuce and Swiss chard as a flowerbed edging. And with all the colors or leaf lettuce now you will be able to add a variety of color to the garden for all seasons. Head lettuce and flowering cabbage looks good behind the lettuce.

I use cabbage and kale as a show of vegetable mixed in flowers and herbs.

Root crops are easier to harvest in containers. I will find nice accent pots or unique planters and add the root crops as garden décor to the gardens and plant a new root crop every two to three weeks to keep a fresh supply of small root vegetables growing the entire season.

Corn and Indian corn make an interesting look mixed in with taller flowers. If you plants corn, a medium height flower and low vegetables of sprawling flowers you can make a great mini garden for the end of the driveway or an accent mini garden. I also do the same with gourds and mix them in with flowering vines and a lower height flower or herbs.

Strawberries, tomatoes, cherry tomatoes and peppers also make great accent plants with their bright fruit. There are many ornamental peppers that have variegated leaves that also add more beauty and color to a garden area.

When it comes to garden planning there are only a few planning basics like spacing, light and water that need to be followed and all the other garden rules are fun to bend and break.

If garden planning seems to be a task you don’t like try out GrowVeg.com to see how easy planning a garden can be.

Gardening can be work but it also can be fun and that’s the part of gardening I always make sure is well planned, fun!

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The one thing I like about square foot gardening is that you can always add a garden later in the season if you find you have more plants to plant or want to add an additional mini garden. This season a have a small curved straw bale garden, tiered straw bale garden and a straw bale square garden, which is perfect for heavy feeding crops.

But one question I am asked a lot is about roots crops. Normally you do not plant root crops in straw bales. But I do have a straw planting technique for potatoes that is perfect for me. It saves space, time and the backache from digging up potatoes. I love gardening – but I do not like digging root crops!

Planting Potatoes in Straw.

Get your potatoes seeds ready. I cut the potatoes, leaving several eyes on each piece and let them dry for about two days before I plant them. During this time find some decent soil, and a container. I often use a bushel basket for my first crop.

Note: your container can be as large as you want. I usually go for a bushel basket or smaller garbage can. I have used old wood crates (check for stains that could be toxic). Also make sure the container has drainage holes.

Once you have your container place it in the spot you plan to leave it during the growing season. The location you choose should get six to eight hours of sun. Add 6 inches of dirt to the bottom of the container; place the potato seeds in the soil and cover. Water well and go plant more of your garden.

In about a week you will see new growth coming out of the ground. When the growth is about 6 inches tall, cover with straw. Repeat this process during the summer.

The potatoes will set out new roots in the straw and in turn will produce more potatoes. I save time, space and digging using this method. There are two other added benefits. Since the potatoes grow in straw they are dirt free and very clean. The other benefit is that I don’t get potato bugs using this method.

The only problem I had was one year I grow them in the garden with no container and used hay. It was a big mistake. The hay attracted mice looking for seeds and I lost most of the crop.

One other plus to growing potatoes using straw and a container, you always have small potatoes to use and they are very easy to harvest, just pull the straw back and pick them. I also grow a new crop of potatoes mid summer.

Try growing potatoes in straw. I think you will enjoy it. This growing process really saves space and makes growing potatoes fun.

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The economy has the nation in a pinch. Your grocery bill expands while your paycheck continues to shrink. Your gas tank eats $30 to $40 every time you fill up. Considering the devastated economy, you’re probably never going to see a raise this year even though prices are going up. Sometimes it can feel like you’re wrestling an alligator just to make ends meet.
photo credit: NatalieHG

You’re going to have to do something about your budget. Penny pinching begins with the grocery bill. More people are beginning to raise their own food in their home, growing their own indoor vegetables in whatever free space they have. All it takes is a few feet of extra space to harvest a fresh indoor vegetable garden, cutting your grocery bill down to size.

Making every dollar work for you makes economical sense, especially when it comes to a LED UFO light. They use very little energy, generally just a little more than a typical living room lamp. A 90-watt growing LED light can produce as much light as a 400-watt HPS bulb and cover 12 feet of space. The lights aren’t even noticeable on your electric bill, no more than leaving the front light on all night.

LED lights may be a little more expensive, but keep in mind they virtually last a lifetime. While HPS lights lose their power after only a couple of growing seasons, LED lights produce optimal light for decades. If you plan to grow indoors for more than a few seasons, they are absolutely worth the money.

Because the lights produce little heat, there’s no danger of heat damage to your plants. You don’t need to worry about using fans or air conditioners.

An LED UFO light is simple to install. Conveniently hang it from the ceiling and plug it in. You don’t have to mess with cumbersome ballasts, and you don’t need any fans. With growing LED lights, setting up a growing process couldn’t be simpler.

There’s also no need for an electrician. Since all you have to do is plug the light in, there’s no complicated wiring to configure. It’s safe with little risk of fire.

With indoor gardening, you can enjoy fresh tomatoes, lettuce, herbs, green peppers throughout the year, even if you live in the city. LED lights let you grow indoors with no carbon footprint. You’ll save money growing your own food, and you’ll live healthier. When you enjoy a complete diet of fresh organic tomatoes and herbs, you really feel the difference, beginning with your energy and vitality. Your food will not only taste better, but you’ll be healthier and enjoy more energy every day.

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